230748

Yes, anytime you replace something that "blinks" (for the most part) with an LED bulb, you need a resistor (yes, you can also disable it via FORSCAN but not everybody has a programming dongle).

You don't need a resistor for the anzo switchback outline, that's different. That's not REPLACING your turn signal. Now, IF you just hooked up the anzo switchback only and removed your front turn signal bulb then MAYBE You'd need a resistor... but the anzo switchback just taps into the existing circuit, it's an added turn signal essentially

2016BoostedGreyGoose

iTrader: (1)

No they dont. They have the load equalizer already built in for the plank (outlines) leds.

vintageman

Thanks for the quick replies. I am currently reading through all the posts (I started at page 200 and am almost at 400) just doing research. I have installed HID kits before on my 04 F150 and loved it, I have had the XHP50 from Adams team running in my stock halogen, now it's time to pull the trigger and upgrade to the Anzo (will order those in a couple of weeks). Ordered the lows, highs, fogs and switchback turn signal leds, relocation kits, and canbus anti-flicker all at once and used the moving promo code for a great rebate. I have pics of BoostedGreyGoose's setup that he shared and really hope mine comes out that clean.
Tom

kyle stenger

I ran crystal visions in my anzos for a bit, great bulbs, but still compared to hid, you just can't compare..

230748

HID throw a TAD bit more light... for those just catching up (as vintageman said) here is a shot we did comparing the favorite bulbs. The XHP50 (same as Putcos Silverlux XHP50), XHP70 (same as Putcos Silverlux Pro) and the Morimoteo HID Elite (one of the more popular HID systems)

This shows our name on it but as I said Putco and some other brands use the XHP50 and XHP70

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Yeah this has been a hard thread to pin down..

Can someone just tell me what exactly I need to buy to pull off an anzo swap?
The xp70 bulbs? For high and low?
Do I absolutely need resistors for the blinkers?
Or should I just go HID given the varying story's on LED actual useable output..
If HID what model number..

Can someone give me an all in price for both mock ups.. looking to pull the trigger on these lights but I feel like I'm still quite ignorant on exactly what to buy here.

06F150CFCT

I feel like the LED vs HID is going to be preference based as they both require some additional work to install so that isn't going to persuade you either way. HID you'll have to run a relay harness (H7) and the HID bulbs you want to buy are H7 in whatever color preference you choose.
I believe 4x4truckleds recommends the xhp50 in the low and xhp70 in the highs.
If you don't use Forscan, you will absolutely need resistors on the running/turn signal plug harness if you choose to run an LED bulb (switchback or regular). The way the Anzo's come out of the box, you do NOT need a resistor.
Finally, you will have to search and see if Autoanything has a special for the switchback Anzo's but otherwise check vendors here as that'll be your best bet. I got mine from Stage 3 for $485 awhile back. From there, it'll depend on whether you go LED or HID and the quality in which you choose. I chose middle of the road LED off Amazon and if they don't work for me I'm going HID as I am use to a real HID projector Retrofit on my last truck.

That is the light output of my low beam LEDs as I just installed everything last night. It has all been sitting in my basement waiting to be installed for 3 weeks or so.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the breakdown..
I don't have forscan yet.. is it best to run it on a windows laptop?
I will probably go with LED's from 4x4LED's if that's on par with what I see in your pic.. what amazon LED's did you buy? Did they fit well?
looks great btw..
I'm curious about rainy night performance since that seems to be the scenario where I've personally had zero luck with LED bulbs.

With the switchbacks, can you drive with your choice of amber halos or white halos running? Or is it one or the other with amber for parking and blinkers only?

For the relays If I don't run forscan, why do I need them to prevent hyperflash? Is it because you guys are switching to an LED blinker bulb and the anzo's ship with an incandescent??

Thanks for all your help!

2016BoostedGreyGoose

iTrader: (1)

Relay packs are only required for the HIDs as the ballast requires a good deal more electrical draw than the regular headlight harness can supply. You mean led load equalizers. They are required only if you replace the incandescent turn signal bulbs that the Anzos ship with...
LEDs require less electrical energy to operate and since your BCM is "smart" it has a bulb outage detection...when the voltage is lower than what your truck is programmed to see, as with LEDs that flash for turn signals, it will trigger this and your turn indicators on your cluster will flash faster than normal...called hyperflash. Outside the truck, the turn indicators in the headlights will flash normally. Keep in mind that resistors (load equalizers) generate heat. Placement has to be away from wires and other items that may be effected by this heat. Forscan is best run on a Laptop, since you need to be in the truck for programming, and the laptop will either need a BT dongle or have BT built in so that it can communicate with the ODBII dongle that is required to use Forscan.

230748

So with LED or HID you'll get poorer performance in the rain then you would factory halogens. That's just how light works. However it's not as noticeable since the LED/HID lights are throwing off MORE lumen.

However if you use that CLOSELY matches factory lumen/lux you'll notice it a lot more, as the lumen/lux isn't as much as say the XHP style bulbs.... however it's a CLEANER light. This is mainly why folks upgrade the halogens. They want something that lasts longer and is cleaner and instant on/off (or in the case of HID is just cleaner/goes further).

Since you asked about the XHP style lights you'd want XHP70s for lows in the Anzo housings, since it's a projector with a lower shroud (the single bulb is VERY bright and gets aimed at 12 oclock). The XHP50 would work well in your high beams.

As far as CANBUS Anti-Flicker adapters go... I always recommend them, because it's a pain to have to re-add them later. On the 2015 I have not realy heard of any issues NOT installing them. 2016+ up I ALWAYS recommend them. You CAN use FORSCAN if you have it to fix the issue (from what I hear).

Your LED Headlights won't hyperflash like an LED replacement bulb would, you'll get a weird flicker here/there or sometimes the passenger side (typically) just turns off and you have to power cycle the lights to get it to come back on.

A lot of folks who want REAL performance but that nice clean white light usually put in amber (yellow) LED fog lights. Personally I run a Baja Designs 40" OnX6 Arc Dual Control bar, so I have basically 2x 10" Amber (yellow) bars I run in poor weather.

Other folks put in amber (yellow) fogs to help. This is why you see those racecars running the amber (yelllow) lights on the race track. It's better lighting and offers less fatique then white. However they cost a lot more AND they are offroad (here in the USA we can't run ambers as our primary headlights, they have to be white-ish, amber are for secondary lights)