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0W20 vs. 5W20

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Old 06-14-2019, 12:27 PM
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Default 0W20 vs. 5W20

I just changed my oil for the first time, and used the cut plastic jug trick found on here to divert drained oil. Excellent idea!!

However on filling it with fresh oil I noted that I'd used Castrol synthetic 0W20 instead of 5W20.

I can't imagine this will be a huge issue, just wondering what others think and how OCD do I really need to be.
Old 06-14-2019, 12:32 PM
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Well now you can drive in Siberia. The 20 is more important than the 5 is.
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Old 06-14-2019, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
Well now you can drive in Siberia. The 20 is more important than the 5 is.
LOL.. Canada is about the same, hope we have a few warm months before bitter cold hits AGAIN!

I was thinking the same re: 20 being the key number.
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Old 06-14-2019, 12:39 PM
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I'm guessing 5.0, because 3.5eb recommends 30 weight instead of 20.
Old 06-14-2019, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by chimmike
I'm guessing 5.0, because 3.5eb recommends 30 weight instead of 20.
Oooops, yes you are correct.
Old 06-15-2019, 04:44 PM
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It's MUCH better to use 0/xx than 5/xx, 'xx' being the same. The reason is 'xx' means viscosity when oil is hot. The first number is viscosity when oil is cold, which even in 0 grade, it'll always be MUCH thicker than hot, meaning the thinner it is (0 is thinner than 5), it starts lubricating the engine quicker at any temperature. The colder the ambient temperature is, the thicker the oil will be. But 0 oil will always be thinner than 5 at any given temperature. That's why there's zero drawbacks when substituting a 5/30 oil for instance, with a 0/30, which is exactly what I did with my 3.5EB at 3K miles. Engine is much quieter at start-up, which was great. But either one should be fine, as both are recommended. And yes, the M1 0/30 I used has the Ford spec.
Old 06-15-2019, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by elptxjc
It's MUCH better to use 0/xx than 5/xx, 'xx' being the same. The reason is 'xx' means viscosity when oil is hot. The first number is viscosity when oil is cold, which even in 0 grade, it'll always be MUCH thicker than hot, meaning the thinner it is (0 is thinner than 5), it starts lubricating the engine quicker at any temperature. The colder the ambient temperature is, the thicker the oil will be. But 0 oil will always be thinner than 5 at any given temperature. That's why there's zero drawbacks when substituting a 5/30 oil for instance, with a 0/30, which is exactly what I did with my 3.5EB at 3K miles. Engine is much quieter at start-up, which was great. But either one should be fine, as both are recommended. And yes, the M1 0/30 I used has the Ford spec.
So what's the drawback or tradeoff? Why not call for a 0-xx to begin with?
Old 06-15-2019, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Threeper88
So what's the drawback or tradeoff? Why not call for a 0-xx to begin with?
The wider the viscosity range, the more additives they have to use to extend the range. Theoretically the narrower viscosity range oil will hold up better and you potentially will burn less oil if your engine burns oil.
Old 06-15-2019, 07:12 PM
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If you live in really hot climes, then you are better with the 5W than the 0, but I don't think the OP lives in Saudi Arabia.
Old 06-15-2019, 11:42 PM
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I’m a stickler on oil viscosity for all of my vehicles and all of my customer vehicles. The vehicle manufacturers all say to use xWxx motor oil and the oil manufacturers all say to use what the manufacturer recommends.

That being said, if it were my vehicle I would leave the mistake oil in it and change back to specification with all future oil changes. If my shop made the mistake in a customers vehicle we would be draining and refilling with the proper oil.


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