Can i use a blower off a 5.4 nd use it on a 4.6 .. I want 2 start doing mods on my truck but really trying to get into barley the 400hp range. Im gona look for a used supercharger.

 

No they won't. I do believe Procharger makes a kit for the 4.6. You may also look at a Turbo.

 

There has been some at pretty good prices in the classified section of this forum but Im always a little leary of used parts from individuals.
But it might be worth a shot to save a few $

 

I bought my Whipple used on ebay for $3400 shipped. That was almost 2 and a half years ago. Came with everything except one pulley and the fuel pressure sensor relocate block. The guy called Whipple a d had them ship me the parts he forgot to remove from his truck before he sold it. I was fortunate to have a good experince. I have since emptied my wallet in this truck as boost=hp and hp is like crack!

 

Have you had any problems with installing on a stock engine? someone told me its asking for trouble unless you increase piston ring gap.
And how much boost do you run?

 

That's a good one. There are so many misnomers out there regarding forced induction and the 5.4. People make these remarks and seem to be so educated but in reality know nothing about it. Our 5.4 3v motors have the same rods and crank as were used in the Lightning and Harley trucks. Both factory supercharged. They did switch to Hyperutectic pistons but thats it. Verses the cheap grade forged pistons in the Lightning its a toss up. Regardless piston gap is the same and does not need any change. However when building a motor it would be wise to optimize pistons, rings, and gaps for optimal performance thus taking your dollar the farthest for the biggest return of power and longevity. Keep in mind building a motor would come at a point when you want to push 450+ rwhp.

My engine is bone stock. Never has a seal been broken. Truck runs like a dream. It has taken a lot of work and learning to get here. I started with a Whipple kit running 8psi. I found it used on ebay for $3400. Over the past 2.5 yrs I have done every bolt on mod I can think of plus a fuel system. Stepped up the boost to 9.5psi and just this past November all the way 13-14psi. While at Troyers on the dyno she made 475rwhp and 533rwtq at 12.45 peak psi. Keep in mind his dyno is at an elevation of around 3000 or so feet. Elevation decreases boost a tad. Anyway here at home she's rocking 13-14psi peak. I don't expect the stock motor to last forever at this level but i hope it holds till around a 100000. Then I will go built and crank the boost up to 18psi. If you want one to last like a na motor stick with 8-10psi.

 

Thanks for the info. Im thinking of a supercharger for now and slowly building up a replacement engine.
I was wondering about that ring gap.
Nice to get an answer from someone with the experience.

 

You will love it. Once you go forced induction and feel the power you will never want to be without it. When you build the new motor be sure to follow the piston gap recommendations of the manufacturer. You brought this up earlier and I should clarify my remarks a little more. It is ok to run 8-12psi on the stock motor given the stock ring gap. (Keeping in mind 8-10psi is best for engine life). 12psi is ok but it is a lot of stress. Anyway what happens and why ring gap is important is that boost creates heat. Combustion chamber temps rise as a result of all the additional fuel and air being ignited and burned.

(As a quick example the stock 5.4 3v burns an avg of 2.7-2.9lbs of fuel per minute at WOT and we avg between 202-225rwhp. When I was at 9.5psi I was burning 5.18lbs pm of fuel at WOT and making 419rwhp. 83% more fuel and increased hp by 107.5%. Not bad. Now at 12.45psi she burns 6.1lbs of fuel pm and churns out 475rwhp. Now I have increased the fuel burn 119% but I have increased hp over stock by 135%!)

So you can imagine if you are doubling your fuel burn and power you are doubling your heat. Heat and ring gap are crucial. As the piston and rings heat they swell. If you are not gapped properly you will scar the walls of the cylinder via the piston ring digging in. To aid in prevention of this on my truck since I'm running high boost (for a stock motor) I have installed a 170 degree thermostat and I run my air fuel ratios in the 11's to help keep EGT's (exhaust gas temp) down below 1600F which is the failure point. This does burn more fuel at WOT and doesn't make all the hp that it would if a/f's were in the 12's but it keeps things cool and safe.

 

Thanks for the help I'll definitely be keeping an eye on ebay and sweet talking the wife

 

So you guys think is better to get a turbo or custome one for my 4.6 ? It has 96,000 mils on it ..