papa tiger

Vacuum leak pulls propane into the intake and engine responds by faster idle, easiest way to find a vacuum leak/crack at intake manifold/hose . Yes Multimeter/VOM and Vacuum hand pump. Vacuum line burned around EGR? Your problem is basic. Voltage to injectors should be 12 volt with key turned on. PCM Relay should energize for injector signal. Ground of injector is back to PCM. With engine running revs voltage back to PCM should be above 4volts. Since they and the EGR are controled by the PCM it may ultimately be the PCM. The www.ehow.com/ thread should help you with diagnosis of faulty DPFE/EGR/ECM. Print out a copy to follow. I take it you have checked all your vacuum lines for a plug or kink, also burn spots/cracks and kinks/hole it goes onto is open not clogged ? You can also ask Ehow or www.ask.com/ questions and find more help. Believe http://www.motorcraftservice.com/ costs $10 for 72 hours of use, but you can print out service pages and latest Ford tips. It may be worth it ultimately. Your ECU may have to be flashed/replaced? It can't tell you its bad. If you can narrow it down it will save you $$$ Even the Temp switch messes with the fuel mixture/EGR, although it should effect both banks normally.

motoxron

No kinks,cracks or burnt vac lines. I did notice that when i use the inertia switch to relieve fuel pressure the engine light doesnt come back on for around 50 miles of driving and normally it comes on around 9-12miles.

papa tiger

That's interesting, try a PSI test on fuel psi and injected psi, possibly they are way high. Think have to pull right front tire and inner fender liner to find psi regulator on side motor with regulator vacuum lines not so service able but? Mirror and snap ring ? 30 psi ? The only 1 bank thing is obvious fuel psi return thing. Bad/evap emissions high ? All 3 injectors wouldn't stay leaking unless psi is way out there. The ECU is grounding to much fuel to the whole bank of injectors, seems strange with no code. What else does your code reader say. Have you navigated it to find any other possible leads. If you do document them so you don't overlook a detail. Check your evap purge valve for clog/ filter dirt, etc. to rule it out. And you know you don't have a wire or vacuum line stuck to something hot or crimped under the manifold.

motoxron

I thought the same thing about the fuel cap. Well i had to send my dad his code reader back but i am gonna try and get one today. Are u talking about checking the fuel pressure on the fuel rail?

And thank u btw for helping me through this

papa tiger

No problem, There certainly seems to be an extreme psi problem. The ECU usually is perty difinitive, won't work. A reflash will sometimes start it up and be dead after shutting back off. A high end code reader can delve into more knowledge. If I'am dead ending you and you want to check out your cam, just pull the cover and turn the crank backwards until the cam moves, than turn back forwards until it moves in the oposite direction. You should not have free play/ the cam not moving from the 12 oclock to the 2 oclock positon. If you do your cam trouble is under the front timing gear cover. Degreeing a cam can be tricky. cam drives do cause a lot of trouble. Just ask Chrysler and oil/crude/ failure. To Flat out is old school and happened a lot. The lifter and cam lobe tore up the lift and the cam couldn't open the valve. Made for a sick engine, usually the cam was moving around and the brgs were not so good. figuring out why it happened usually led you to bad manufacturing ideas/nitride disappeared too soon. New cam, new lifters, new cam brgs, cam gear, cam break in lube and bingo, smoken power.

jt351

Wow what is that guy talking about. Please post info that you know is correct, and stop pulling out of your butt. take your right rear tire off to check your flux capacitor while you are at it, HE SAYS HE HAS A RICH CODE, a bad PCV hose creates a LEAN CODE a LEAN CODE, so does a egr EGR will make it LEAN LEAN LEAN. but seriously check your fuel pressure, and you need a to see the O2 sensors with some PID data you need to see if both bank2 o2's are reading high, if the dowstream (bank2 sensor2)is reading low than your rich code is a false code.

motoxron

SO the light has not been back on and ive drivin 65miles thats the longest its gone yet. I hooked up the code reader anyways and it said no codes pending or stored codes. I ran a test and got the following codes ( none of wich are what i have been dealing with) p0115 engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit p0505 idle air control system p0110 intake air temp sensor and p1605,keep alive memory test failure. The only thing i did yesterday was check the fuel pressure regulator to see if it leaked gas and nothing then i unpluged the inertia and completely unplugged the battery. I also seen one vac line on the drivers side of the plenum that did not have a hose clamp on it and it pulled off pretty easy. Not enough to fall off itself though. I put a clamp on it anyways. It goes to something on the fire wall on the drivers side . So im gonna let the truck cool down and go drive some more and see what happens. Idk what thpse new codes are

motoxron

I will also record the data this test drive and see what the o2's are up to and when its light tomorrow i will check the fuel pressure

papa tiger

Ok, if you have got it just pickup some new vacuum line whenever and replace all the old stuff one at a time. It is not so good physical shape about every 5 years. Good luck, happy new year !

motoxron

Thank u. It seems perfectly good but it is almost 10yrs old. Im trying to figure out how to record and view the scanner recording. Ill post the findings and again thank u!!