clintm6

Nice truck, but you're in the 87-96 forum...

BLDTruth

Thanks Clint. I'd say 90% aesthetic and 10% extra protection. And I had a bunch of extra loom around from my stereo project.

Next project is going to be to build my own HD headlight harness using relays. I've looked at the Putco and the Bronco Graveyard versions and I'm pretty convinced I can build a better one myself. Maybe not for cheaper, but better.

clintm6

That's a project I've thought about too, so please give us a rundown when you get to it!!

BLDTruth

I have a design/approach in mind, just trying to figure out what gauge wire I want to run, and I also want to implement it into a larger relay/fuse box with 4-6 relays for some LED lights and perhaps a future electric fan upgrade. So taking my time and making sure I get everything I want

Steve83

Why would you need new headlight sockets? And if you install 2 new ones, why keep either original? New-tech (LED, HID) headlights draw LESS current than originals, so the old switches, wiring, & fuses are oversized for them - I.O.W., you don't actually need to change anything else if you upgrade the headlights. But this caption contains Ford's guidelines for any wiring mods, including how to choose wire sizes:

(phone app link)


This & the NEXT few show how I added a factory relay box:

(phone app link)


This shows a way to add fuses:

(phone app link)

...but a repro is now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223393530795

BLDTruth

The goal in this case really is to put the load on the battery instead of the headlight switch. I don't have any plans on switching to LED or HID headlights any time soon, though it might happen someday. I like the idea of keeping the factory plugs for backup, so if I am out and about at night and the new harness fails for any reason all I have to do is unplug the factory driver headlight plug from the new harness and then plug both factory plugs into the headlight bulbs. Based on my reading it looks like 14 AWG is the way to go for the power and ground wires.

I'm gonna order two of these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TechSmart-F...bd3c%7Ciid%3A1

They come with 14 AWG wires and will work perfectly for what I need, I think. One of the males can be used to plug into the factory passenger headlight socket and serve the switch power to the relays, the two females will be used as the new sockets, and the other male can be used a dust cover for the un-used driver factory headlight socket.

I thought about using a factory fuse/relay box but my local yard wants 50 bucks for one and won't budge on it. Seems a little steep. Reaching out to some local buddies today to see if they have any spares.

Steve83

The load is already on the battery (when the engine is off) - you're just connecting it to a new spot. It seems like you're just adding complexity, but it's your truck...

BLDTruth

Yes it is and I have seen in person what this modification does on other trucks, with the results being brighter headlights and little to no chance of melting your headlight switch connector.

Steve83

Those trucks had wiring problems that could have been simply fixed, instead of overlaying something new & complicated with more points of potential failure. If your headlights are dim, it'll be cheaper, quicker, safer, & easier to find & repair the fault(s). When you start hacking the harness, you make it harder for yourself in the future to keep track of what you've done, and how to maintain/repair it.

BLDTruth

I understand your concern with points of failure, but I won't be hacking my factory harness at all. Everything will be plug and play, and if there is a point of failure in the new harness, the old plugs will be there (and still functional).

I am going to test it on one headlight and see if it is worth doing. If I don't see any appreciable difference between the headlights, then it will be a waste of time and I won't bother. I'll start a new thread on it if I end up doing it.