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I checked the spark plugs and instead of cleaning them I replaced them. They seemed dirty with carbon build up. I sensed that the exhaust was a little rich and I smelled a little bit of something burning. After changing out the plugs I decided to look under the list cap and the electrodes were carboned up and the rotor was crusted with carbon. So, I decided to replace dist cap, rotor, dist cap stand-off and also the ignition coil. I did these components the last two years, but for some reason there was this carbon crust build-up. Moisture build-up for some reason..not sure why???? but it runs nicely now.....got to figure out this carbon thing someday...
It's a natural result of an electrical spark passing through O2 & CO2 (in the air). Have you ever applied grease as this diagram & its caption recommend?
But you don't have to replace the cap & rotor just for that buildup - it can be easily & effectively cleaned off with a file, pick, sandpaper, or even a pocket screwdriver. The cap only needs replacement if it fails this test:
Finally got the Speedo back from Autometer for programming the proper mileage for the truck so I was able to continue the install process.
Next up was mockup. Took pictures of the process and got some closeups to show what warning lights were being used and what the location was going to be.
Didnt get much further than this due to having to go out and get some paint and primer for the sheet metal and because of prepping for the holiday. Having Christmas at our house this year.............again.
That looks fabulous! Please post pics when you have it all done!! I was thinking about something like that after messing around with my gage cluster putting in new LED bulbs. Had to solder a jumper wire to get one of the lights to work, but now they all do. But all that plastic is getting brittle and is just barely holding on!!
That looks fabulous! Please post pics when you have it all done!! I was thinking about something like that after messing around with my gage cluster putting in new LED bulbs. Had to solder a jumper wire to get one of the lights to work, but now they all do. But all that plastic is getting brittle and is just barely holding on!!
Will do.
The truck is in the process of becoming a street/strip truck and I wanted to get everything to the point where the drive train was the last thing on the list so when that's done I can just drive it.
I'd like to have the BB ready by next winter so I have a nice project to keep me busy while the truck is parked but I'm not sure.
I'd still like to get some racing buckets and a nice center console made up as well.
Probably won't be able to get some paint down and the final wiring done until after Christmas.
Haven't driven Green in a while as I have been away with work. It is good to be back in my Ol' truck! I drove it the first couple of days I was back (mid-November) and all of the ABS/Brake system light s came on on the way home. I'd been keeping an eye on the rubber brake hoses....got all 3 changed and replaced the rear wheel cylinders while I was at it. All Raybestos parts this time; shame China is the manufacturer of most "American" brands now. Bleeding the system was a whole lot easier with the spiffy new vacuum pump I bought!
I have gotten the front end aligned by an Old Skool Tech who knows how to align these trucks. It drives much, much better; re-centering after turns, no longer bump steering and drifting, and it holds its lane position without so much input.
I changed out the wiper motor and re-plumbed the washer circuit under the cowl while I had that apart.
I was watching Two Guys Garage yesterday morning and saw them do a Disc brake conversion to a 89/74 Chevy Van. I'd like to do that to my truck if there is a kit. Anyone found one or looked into it?
Inside Man, that is a real nice looking gauge cluster arrangement you've built!
Excuse me for not reading everything yet, but, in round numbers, what did that cost for the gauges, materials, wiring and hardware, and your time?
12-19-2018, 05:32 AM
