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What did you do to your truck today?

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Old 06-24-2018, 09:23 AM
  #13661  
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Originally Posted by okc lube man


Now that I got this nice new 96’, I was thinking I’ve adding a keyless entry, maybe even keyless start. The later not as important. So do you really need to pull the entire dash? How much will you save doing it yourself? I think you responded to a thread of mine about power mirrors, that the aftermarket all had vibration. Is it possible to still get OE?
For a factory anti-theft/keyless system you have to replace all of the wiring in the cab. For just power mirrors you would have to replace both door harnesses and mirrors - the drivers harness runs all the way across the cab behind the dash to the other door, so you still have to pull the dash, just not as "far" LOL.

I got my OEM power mirrors from a JY and gave them a fresh coat of paint. No rattling or vibrations.
Old 06-24-2018, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by okc lube man
...I was thinking I’ve adding a keyless entry... So do you really need to pull the entire dash?
No, you can overlay the wiring to add aftermarket or factory RKE. But it'll be messy unless you tuck it in the dash, run it through/behind the dash, or zip-tie it to the dash.
Originally Posted by okc lube man
How much will you save doing it yourself?
Depends how much someone else wants to charge you to do it, and how much you spend DIY-ing. If someone else wants thousands, and you do it for a hundred, you've saved thousands.
Originally Posted by okc lube man
...power mirrors, that the aftermarket all had vibration. Is it possible to still get OE?
It's aftermarket MANUAL mirrors (mainly bubble-backs) that vibrate. The only place to get OE (original equipment) parts is the junkyard. IDK who the OEM (manufacturer) was for '92-96 mirrors, but they're certainly NOT making them new any more - only aftermarket copies (probably from China). If you have manual flag-mount mirrors, it's relatively easy & cheap to convert them to power using JY parts. Read the captions in this album:


(phone app link)
Originally Posted by okc lube man
Today I will be replacing door striker bolts.
If you don't align the doors to the body, the new ones won't last long. Read this & the NEXT dozen or so captions:


(phone app link)

Last edited by Steve83; 06-24-2018 at 12:38 PM.
Old 06-24-2018, 01:42 PM
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Hey Steve83 thanks for that insight on the door alignment! If I am seeing things correctly the door bolts adjust up and down and in and out. The cowl bolts (if that is correct term) will adjust the gaps between the fender and the cab.
is this correct?
Old 06-24-2018, 02:09 PM
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I would also like to just thanks to each and every person on this forum that has been there and done that, and that those that may be in the profession that share your knowledge to the rest of us DIYers.
Old 06-24-2018, 08:43 PM
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Detailed the old girl today .Broke out the DA polisher, polished with Dodo Juice Lime Prime them sealed with Wolfgang paint sealant. In a few days I'll add a later if nuba (something from Bouncers probably) and she'll be set for another few months.
Old 06-24-2018, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by okc lube man
...the door bolts adjust up and down and in and out. The cowl bolts (if that is correct term) will adjust the gaps between the fender and the cab.
is this correct?
Both adjust up/down. Read the next several captions, and follow the relevant links in them for more details.
Old 06-26-2018, 09:36 AM
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Washed the damn thing and adjusted the LED headlights.
Old 06-27-2018, 03:54 PM
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Swapped out the coffee can today for the plastic replacement part. Pretty easy job, just had to extend the vacuum lines a few inches because of the different angle of the connections. A few couplers and a foot or so of hose and it was done.
Old 07-03-2018, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BLDTruth
I still want to do the axle pivot bushings on mine - but it looks like a royal pain. If only I had a lift lol.
BLD, that's not too bad of a job. I used a combination of a scissor jack and my floor jack to support the beam. I used a Ball Joint press to change the bushing. Not difficult at all and it made a difference in the truck..
Old 07-03-2018, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by lowercasee
Swapped out the coffee can today for the plastic replacement part. Pretty easy job, just had to extend the vacuum lines a few inches because of the different angle of the connections. A few couplers and a foot or so of hose and it was done.
I have that next on the list of things...I haven't looked; did you have to drill mounting holes for the 3 studs?
While I am there on that fender, I'm going to re-install the Heater core bypass valve to improve my AC performance. Hopefully the plastic vacuum can is the answer to the puzzle.

Last edited by stxlt; 07-03-2018 at 08:53 AM.


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