Here's the deal: I just bought a new battery for my truck, it's an Everlast 850CCA battery with a 3 year warranty. Anyways, since I installed this battery, 99% of the time I start the truck, the idle is now NOT butter smooth like it was before on the old crap battery. But after I put it in drive and move like 50 feet, anytime after that, the idle is exactly what it should be. I have no idea what this could be, please help!

 

Have you driven the truck enough miles for the computer to relearn all engine
variables from all the sensors?

just sayin...

 

how many miles or how long does that normally take? I've driven about 50 miles on the new battery. With the old one it cokpletely regained all it's composure within the first 5. I think I'll disconnect the battery while I'm working today and then reconnect at the end to fully wipe the computer and then see what happens

Would of make a difference that the computer is just out of whack because I just switched batteries without leaving it disconnected long enough to clear it's memory?

 

May sound dumb, but did you check the connections with the battery and the terminals? My terminals corroded along with the terminal wires and caused similar issues one time. Also, if you've got a voltmeter, you may want to check to see if your new battery is really holding a good charge.

 

As of today all is well. The computer must have just taken slightly longer to learn the new parameters. I'll keep this updated for a few more days on whether or not it comes back

 

It takes several miles for the EEC to relearn the throttle variables.

As you know; the computer receives input from sensors at wide-open throttle and stores this information for the best engine performance.

 

At wide open throttle. Also, at Idle, cruising. deceleration, ect... WOT is probably the most dynamic, but probably less applicable overall to most people's driving styles. The juxtapose of WOT might be idle behavior upon rapid deceleration. Fine tuning normal acceleration & cruising probably most applicable.

The ECU is a creature of your habits. That included difficulties in breaking bad habits. If a dysfunctional senor is allowed to input 'out of range" input long enough, it will move that error from an active code to a continuous memory code.

Usually locking out that sensors input, & substituting a generic reading. Even after the sensor is replaced, the ECU may ignore that senor for 40 or more completed warmup cycles before accepting the sensors input again.

The shortcut is to clear & rebuilt the KAM (Kept addaptive memory) by disconnecting the battery for 5 mins.. If you do this when the sensor is still bad, the code will move out of continuous memory & once again show as an active code.

All this is why it's important to denote codes as KOEO (O), Continuous Memory (CM) & KOER (R). To determine what's really going on! If you mix them together, your wasting important diagnostic information.

You should also do error code scans before clearing the KAM whenever possible. Not a deal breaker, but their is a method to the madness. The sooner you learn & follow it, the better for you.

 

I really outta pull codes soon. Alls well so far, but it can't hurt

 

A new thing has come up. The truck now will have the smooth idle, but when I hit the gas it'll sputter and not wanna go, then finally compose itself and drive like normal. And after 20 seconds of driving, this also goes away.

So I'm thinking either it's running really rich at idle, I smell gas when it does it's stuttering in reverse(only smell it because I back up through my exhaust, probably happens going forward to). OR I need to replace the spark plugs.

Anyone else got other ideas?

 

codes!