So I recently picked up a 91 XLT Lariat with the 302 block. I've got some major mods planned, shortening the frame for a short bed, 3/4 drop, a mild build on both the motor and trans and a nice black cherry pearl spray. But before I can get that far, I am wanting to clean up the engine bay.

My main question is this. How do I delete the miles of vacuum lines, or shorten them to where there isn't the rat nest of cluttered hoses? What allnis possible to get rid of before I start causing performance issues in the engine?

As for the build, I've been reading up on the GT 40 heads off the 96 Explorer, paired with a decent cam and long tubes. What is the general consensus on this combination?

With the E4OD transmission, I've gotten mixed reviews. Some say it's a good box, some say trash it for something better. Can I build it relatively low budget to handle between 300 and 400 ft lbs and same HP?

If you can't tell already, I am completely new to the Ford family. I've always owned a Chevy, but I made the dive on this because I'd like to make a good build with the truck. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Welcome to the dark side.

Vacuum lines can't really be deleted. But you can replace them with much prettier (and more effective) silicone or rubber tubing.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...es-rubber.html.

GT40 (3 bar) heads are the way to go. GT40p (4 bar) heads will require the use of a special type of header. Either way, long tube headers are pretty much worthless in this power range - stick with shorties and a good Y pipe (check out bassani), and back that up with a single 3" exhaust. Once you get rid of the factory cats you can go about removing the smog pump and all of the associated plumbing on the back of the heads - which will allow you to remove a couple of those vacuum lines you want to rid yourself of.

They put E4OD's behind the biggest and baddest diesels and big blocks that ford made during that era. It will hold up fine to your build.

Recommend putting all of your trucks info in your signature so we can be as helpful as possible.

 

Ford didn't put any unnecessary parts or vacuum lines in the engine bay. Even the emissions systems help the engine work better & improve economy. Click these & read the captions:


(phone app link)


(phone app link)

 

If you're planning to build up an E4OD, I'd suggest you hunt up a diesel version to rob some innards out of. There's some bigger pieces stuffed in there that will improve the strength of yours.
The early E4OD's (like yours) were prone to issues but they kept improving them every year. Those upgrades plus some diesel innards can make yours pretty much bulletproof.

 

I just bought some clear tubing at tsc. Practically every retail store has them and even most parts stores carry an alternative vac line to the stock nylon lines. I think 15ft was how much I used total. Heres the pics, I have obviously modified my engine and engine bay alot but the original vac tree (now in front) is still there. If you wanna do something similar pm me and ill get you my parts list and a little instructional n to get you started. Its not as clean looking in these pics because I haventtook any pics since I put everything where it is going to be but you get the idea.

 

Clear soft vinyl tubing is not rated for vacuum, or engine temperature, or automotive chemicals.

 

What about Tigon lines for vacuum lines? Would that be a better alternative than the clear plastic line?

implanting on converting to MAF, to get away from the density setup, so I'm not sure If I need as much vacuum, since I'll be running a larger cam.

Also, will be porting the original trucks intake and the GT40 heads as a matching set, upgrading throttle bodies and giving the ignition system a breath of fresh air.

Chris1, I've got a guy that does my transmissions doing a refresh and upgrade to the trans for me.

As I said, I'm completely new to Ford, but I want to make sure I get this right before I start tearing into the engine. I appreciate all the help.

 

Tigon is a small-engine fuel line - its wall isn't thick enough to withstand vacuum, and I doubt it's rated for engine compartment heat. The best alternatives to the factory hard nylon are vulcanized rubber "VACUUM HOSE" or thick-wall silicone tubing. Some people use steel brake line, but I think that's overkill, both in effort & cost.

 

Actually it is. Vinyl tubing is also called poly-vinyl chloride or PVC tubing. well within the pressure rating and when it comes to temperature remember the temp on your gauge is not the engine bay temperature itself thats fluid temp. So even a 150* rating wouldd likelyy hold. Vacuum lines have no chemical going through them but if they did PVC has you covered, however everyone knows SILICONE in applications where fuel and oil may be present is a no no. My POLYURETHANE lines come off of a vacuum tree to either the reservoir or to their respected valves. And no matter what material its common sense to avoid high heat areas that risk rubbing or touching your lines anyway.
What works for me might not work for everyone else. Note too that my higher pressure lines (ie: brake booster) are infact vulcanized rubber.Tygon is used frequently and from what Ive seen does well, just pricey in comparison. Basically you can use fuel line material for vacuum just not the other way around as long as the pressure rating meets your needs. Mine have been clear tubing on this truck for a couple months, on my last truck....... 5-6yrs and were on it when I sold it.

 

Just to put this one to rest. It holds up fine, trust me. And even cheap vinyl tubing is rated for 55-85psi and 200 degrees. Its used in high pressure systems alot. My truck never runs over 190 so the poly tubing is well applicable.