Topic Sponsor
1987 - 1996 F150 Still running strong! Talk about your 8th and 9th generation Ford F150 trucks.

U-joint squeak?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 28, 2007 | 04:04 PM
  #1  
lucky37's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Yellowknife, NT, Canada
Default U-joint squeak?

I have a squeaking sound (like a metallic chirp) coming from underneath that is directly related to the rpm the driveshaft is turning - as I speed up the squeaking gets faster, and as I slow down the squeaking gets slower.

I have read it could be a u-joint problem; any opinions? Wondering how to go about verifying that it is a bad u-joint. Thanks.
Reply
Old May 28, 2007 | 04:23 PM
  #2  
ford_anger 01's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 277
Likes: 1
From: South Texas
Default

you can get up under it and take a look and you might be able to tell by that

ive had to get a new drive shaft cause i threw a ujoint and it tore the drive shaft up
Reply
Old May 28, 2007 | 05:02 PM
  #3  
Ty's Avatar
Ty
Senior Member
Supporting Member

 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,986
Likes: 7
From: Minocqua Wi
Default

I had the same problem, but it only happened when I was backing up. It turned out to be my u-joint, and I got it replaced, and the noise went away.
Reply
Old May 28, 2007 | 08:13 PM
  #4  
NGM's Avatar
NGM
Resident A-hole
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,098
Likes: 33
From: Tallahassee
Default

Sounds like a bad U-joint. replace them both. ITs EASY!!!! Don't pay someone to do it. Bang em out bang em in. Just be careful not to let the needles fall into the cup.
Reply
Old May 29, 2007 | 10:19 PM
  #5  
lucky37's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Yellowknife, NT, Canada
Default

Well, I have half of it banged out, just working on the other half. It's taking a lot of hammering... I need a bigger hammer!
Reply
Old May 29, 2007 | 10:40 PM
  #6  
Ty's Avatar
Ty
Senior Member
Supporting Member

 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,986
Likes: 7
From: Minocqua Wi
Default

a hammer, ratchets, extensions, and wood blocks are what you need.
Reply
Old May 30, 2007 | 09:43 AM
  #7  
Hooptie's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Default

Well, mine just needs the front, the rear is fine. Its full of new grease as well.

The front is apparently a POS. Do you just pop out the c rings and drive the bearings out?
Reply
Old May 30, 2007 | 05:05 PM
  #8  
lucky37's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Yellowknife, NT, Canada
Default

My front was the only bad one as well. The rear was fine and looks newer, and because it had a grease nipple I topped it up with some new grease. The front one had no grease nipple and therefore was also a POS.

I basically took out the rings and hammered at the bearing caps (hammered out the caps in the transmission side first, as the shaft can move as you do this). Didn't have to remove the other end of the driveshaft as there is lots of room underneath to work. I haven't hammered out the bearing caps in the driveshaft itself yet (gonna go do after this post). I'll let you know how it went and if it's nice and easy putting the new u-joint in. I'm thinking it'll be easier than taking them out. "knock on wood"
Reply
Old May 30, 2007 | 08:47 PM
  #9  
NGM's Avatar
NGM
Resident A-hole
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,098
Likes: 33
From: Tallahassee
Default

Originally Posted by lucky37
My front was the only bad one as well. The rear was fine and looks newer, and because it had a grease nipple I topped it up with some new grease. The front one had no grease nipple and therefore was also a POS.

I basically took out the rings and hammered at the bearing caps (hammered out the caps in the transmission side first, as the shaft can move as you do this). Didn't have to remove the other end of the driveshaft as there is lots of room underneath to work. I haven't hammered out the bearing caps in the driveshaft itself yet (gonna go do after this post). I'll let you know how it went and if it's nice and easy putting the new u-joint in. I'm thinking it'll be easier than taking them out. "knock on wood"
Its easier if the driveshaft is on a bench not still attached to the truck with you on your back. I did a set of U joints in a Camaro the other day. With having to heat the joints up to burn out the plastic crap Chebby uses to hold them in stock, the whole job took about 20 mins.
Reply
Old May 31, 2007 | 06:00 PM
  #10  
lucky37's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Yellowknife, NT, Canada
Default

I got it all done with the shaft still on the truck. I don't have a bench or workshop (live in an apartment) so I did all my work in the parking lot. There was plenty of room underneath, but it would definitely be easier to take the shaft off to work on, you're right.

The girlfriend just drove the truck 5000 km across Canada and I'm cringing at what could have happened along the way while cruising at 70mph. There was nothing left of the roller bearings inside one cap, except dust, and another caps bearings were in pieces.

Thanks for the info everyone. Here's the bad u-joint...

Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:33 AM.