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troubleshooting thermactor system

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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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Default troubleshooting thermactor system

I'm getting a consistent code 311 on my '94 302 (thermactor system inoperative) My Chilton's doesn't have any significant information on the thermactor system and how to work on it can anyone point me to a wiring diagram or give me a procedure for finding out what is wrong? Thanks!
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 04:47 PM
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my understanding is that the thermactor system helps the catalytic converters by injecting fresh air as needed into the exhaust. in light of that:

1) how is the computer sensing that the thermactor system isn't working? by some sensor in the exhaust?

2) could my cats be bad?
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 05:02 PM
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I've also heard thermactor is a fancy word for smog pump, is this true?
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 05:30 PM
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yep and it means the divertor sensor isnt working or the connection is bad...
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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where is this sensor located and how would I check it?
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 06:06 PM
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where all the hoses come together for the AIR pump...there is wires on the divertor...check that


Last edited by dr_bowtie; Oct 13, 2010 at 07:14 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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and I gotta ask... I thought bowtie was the chevy emblem?
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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Dr. Bowtie is the Chevy man, with a Ford truck. There is no sensor on the thermactor valve. The computer can only tell if the control solenoids are working, so make sure they're plugged in and getting vacuum. They're on the drivers side valve cover.
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Just call me Sean
Dr. Bowtie is the Chevy man, with a Ford truck. There is no sensor on the thermactor valve. The computer can only tell if the control solenoids are working, so make sure they're plugged in and getting vacuum. They're on the drivers side valve cover.
LOL
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 08:44 PM
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now that's a weird smiley :P I've checked the wires to the TAB and TAD solenoids, everything seems to be plugged in, so barring electrical issues elsewhere I have to assume it's vacuum, yes? Is there a better way to test the vacuum lines than turn in the truck, unplug and see if there is vacuum?
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