Still getting 334, the EGR must be stuck open.

 

hey i got the same truck and i'm a mechanic michel on demand and all data tell me vacuum should be between 1hg-2hg at curb idle i don't beleive thats your issue. vacuum leaks are real bad on these trucks so take all vacuum lines off and carefully inspect them also the tin coffee looking can can also rupture from wrought. find wires to pcm find the pins that control the solnoid make sure signal voltage correct.
also you can test egr diaphram by removing the vacuum line then attach vacuum gauge to egr start then start to add 1hg at time if engine doesn't stumble egr no good also make sure that it holds vacuum, doesn't bleed away if it does the daipham is perferated. hope that get u in the right direction.

 

ok, i can definately see about 1/8" or a little more of the little silver shaft with the truck shut off. the sensor i took off was light grey almost white, the one i bought was dark grey almost black. i got it from parts store not ford. it was the only one to choose from.

 

a little more info, if i put a vacuum on the egr it does drop the rpms.

 

My guess would be it's an issue with the sensor.

...and if you've read my thread titled 'code 33' you'll realize that it's a lot of guessing!

If you can locate the one of the same color, that may be the solution. The only other idea that I can offer is the second gasket thing, which sounds like it didn't work for you. Can you loosen the mounting screws a touch without losing vacuum?

 

should i not be able to see any of the little shaft under the diaphram when the truck is at idle or not running? just wondering if the new egr valve is bad?

 

Supposedly no, but I removed the one that is currently running trouble free to verify that it was closed. It shows a bit of the shaft even when closed (I assume the diaphragm has moved up a bit?)