How can I check fuel pressure? And what's the spec at key on, idle, 1500rpm and 2500rpm? I have a lot of valve clatter. Before I adjusted the timing the truck would only have valve clatter when I sped up moderately like not passing gear if that makes sense. Now it does it all the time weather it be light or heave acceleration. But if I sit in park or neutral I can rev the motor without any valve clatter at all it just screams no problem. It's just one rocker arm Im pretty sure. Do you think if my fuel pressure is with in spec. I should take of my valve covers and see if I have a loose rocker arm?

 

Are you sure its rocker clatter and not detonation? First have you checked for codes? Next try to identify where the sound is coming from. A piece if hose to your ear will help you narrow down the location, or you can pick up a stethoscope from harbor freight for about $10. If it seems to be one cylinder try removing the spark plug to see if the sound changes. The idle should slow and get rough. Then you can test that cylinder for compression and you can connect shop air to it to see if a valve is stuck open. You can do all that without pulling the valve cover. For fuel pressure you can connect a gauge to the fuel rail test port. Its a Schrader valve like the tire has.

 

Awesome I will be testing all of these things as soon as I get a chance, as far as the fuel pressure. After I connect the gauge, would I be able to start it with the gauge connected to the fuel rail? Or only key on kind of thing? I'm almost sure I have low fuel pressure. But I'm still going to check everything else. As far as the clatter sound. It only happens when I'm going down the road. Like under a load. I can rev the motor all I want in park or neutral but no sound. Where can I get a fuel pressure gauge also.

 

That sounds more like detonation, aka knock and ping. Start by setting the timing to factory 10* btdc. Go ahead and do the other tests as well and it will give a good picture of the engine condition. Detonation can be caused by too much advance on the timing, bad spark plugs, bad gas, and compression too high or hot spots in the engine due to deposits or metal damage in the cylinder. A treatment of SeaFoam and a tank of good gas will help clear up carbon deposits, gum and varnish. Pull the spark plugs and "read" them. For the fuel pressure, you should take it koeo and with the engine running. I don't have the specs on hand but hit Google or AllData. I also recommend a shop manual, Chilton's, Hayes or ford. They list all these tests step by step as well as the specs.

 

Tomorrow I am doing the fuel pressure test and I'm going to pull the plugs to see the damage lol. Also I didn't see any codes I even replaced the bulb just to make sure!

 

Also here is the fuel pressure spec. In case anyone else is following this thread.

 

Did you use the check code procedure? The check engine light won't always be on and you should at least get an all clear code.

 

I did the jumper wire on the obd1 connector. I also looked up "just call me Sean's" thread on retrieving obd1 trouble codes to make sure I was doing it correctly. And as far as fuel pressure no one around has The fuel pressure gauge small enough to fit over my Schrader valve. All the auto shops around here tell me you need the doors one witch is bs I think anyway even parts stored didn't have the right one.

 

thats funny the Actron universal one Advance Auto has works on mine no issue... if a common valve.

 

ohh okay. Do you know of they rent those out?