I've never seen 2 pcv valves either... Seems like the actual factory location is on the back of the passenger side valve cover. The one I removed must have been something the previous owner did. That's the least of my worries!

Back to this intake removal - I should just have to take the upper intake off to get to the passenger side, right? I'm thinking that's less gaskets to get right, less damage I can do, etc. I guess it's also a good chance to check out the throttle body, swap in a new TPS, get at that pcv valve in the back, etc.

I'm gonna start gathering the gaskets and other parts I need for all of this, while I'm studying the book and getting my mind ready. After the can of worms I opened with the EGR valve, I can't believe you're talking me into something like this!

 

Yes, you just have to take off the upper intake, so you just need the upper intake gasket.

 

I just updated my EGR post, and it sort of ties in with this one now (I think).

I sure hope the EGR situation is behind me now. While I was at it, I replaced what appeared to be 116000 mile factory plug wires, checked firing order, and made sure not to cross wires as mentioned in another post.

Somewhere between the EGR not trying to J-brake the motor like a semi stopping on the way downhill, and the new plug wires, the truck idles smooth and the ticking sound is almost gone. Still there, but so much quieter that I can't hardly believe it.

I'm not complaining, but does anyone have any idea why this could/would happen?

 

It could be that the wires were bad enough for the spark to be jumping to a ground instead of firing the spark plug. That causes a ticking sound.

 

you might try a can of SeaFoam. Run added to your oil prior to oil change. It breaks up sludge pockets & clogged or restricted port channels and holds in suspension so when oil is drained out contaminants go too. If excessively sludged up (First use /100k will be) oil drained resembles blackstrap molasses, empty out filter (new cheap one better) reinstall refill w/ cheap detergent oil & run it for a day and dump that. This time it will look like oil from a normal change. This would be a good time to switch to Synth. w/ an extended range filter & a qt. Lucas Synth. Stabilizer to enhance top end protection at restarts. I wouldn't rule out exhaust related cause before running it by a reputable muffler shop. More proficient at ID'ing exaust problem sounds.

 

I might have to try that - sure couldn't hurt!

...not nearly as big of a job as opening up the whole top end either.

 

I got a can of sea foam, and will add it tonight. How many miles should I let it work in there before draining the oil?

 

After adding the sea foam last night, I only put about 25 or 30 miles on the truck today. Pulled the dipstick tonight when I got home, and it had some little black specs in the oil. The oil was darker than before too, so I think it's cutting through some crud.

There is no set timeline on the can or on the manufacturer's website - should I just let it work until the oil is good and black, or only leave it in for a few days? I've got everything ready to change the oil, and then change it again.

I also read about using it in the intake (through the brake vacuum line) and in the fuel - do you recommend doing those too?

Thanks again for this tip - I had never even heard of sea foam before!

 

Sorry, I'm on 3 or4 forums & lost track of this thread. Thought time was noted on can! Quit driving & drain that crap. If you fallow the rest of the suggestions above, it will be a long time till your oil will need changing. I highly recommend the air intake application. 2/3 can in and shut off engine quickly and allow to sit for @20 mins. pour the rest in the tank. When you restart,rev the engine. The dissolved deposit buildup in the combustion chambers will be burning away for a minute or two, so be prepaired for more smoke than you've ever seen from a vehicle w/o being on fire. Also, do it before you drain the oil as some of the residue collects with the oil. They also make a product called TransTune, added prior to tranny fluid change. If you use this and switch to Synth. ATF, tranny temp should drop about 20F. Remember to drain the torque converter too. than holds quite a bit of the fluid. On my 302, I just remove the inspection plate, hand rotate the T/C and remove the drain plug when it comes around. Check your manual. This isn't something you do every time you get bored, There is a protective glaze baked onto piston/cylinder wall surfaces that must remain intact. Add it to oil & run it for 1/2-1 hour and drain it. The cheap oil flush before putting in the good stuff is not needed after the first time.

 

Ok - I'll drain it tonight, then again Friday or over the weekend. I'll also pick up another can of sea foam and run through the intake.

Would that mucked up junk be causing the truck to feel like it can't get out of it's own way? I might be running in circles over the EGR thing when the real reason is right under my nose?