Throttle Position Sensor swap ...
Good morning, see you are still at it. You seem to be a very precise and careful person. I don't have the specs you are requesting. My experience would tell me to use the correct wrench and torque accordingly. Short wrenches = good and snug. Long wrenches = lean into it.
Happy Tday,
The TPS swap went fine, everything reads out but the reverse still brings an immediate stall. So this morning I ran a KOEO and it's clear and the KOER gave me 411 & 538. The 538 may be my screw up but I've never seen the 411 before any ideas?
The TPS swap went fine, everything reads out but the reverse still brings an immediate stall. So this morning I ran a KOEO and it's clear and the KOER gave me 411 & 538. The 538 may be my screw up but I've never seen the 411 before any ideas?
411 and 538 are both rpm related KOER codes - probably input error, nothing to worry about.
You might try adjusting the throttle stop screw (on the top of the throttle body where the linkage connects). Either mark it or keep track of how far you turn it. Maybe tighten it 1/4 or 1/2 turn and see if that helps. You'll want to know where to go back to in case it doesn't help.
What is it idling at now (in gear and in park)?
You might try adjusting the throttle stop screw (on the top of the throttle body where the linkage connects). Either mark it or keep track of how far you turn it. Maybe tighten it 1/4 or 1/2 turn and see if that helps. You'll want to know where to go back to in case it doesn't help.
What is it idling at now (in gear and in park)?
538 is operator error, so you did something wrong.
411 means cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check. This one sounds like an IAC problem or the TPS isn't adjusted quite right. You're not really supposed to mess with the throttle stop screw, but some people have had good luck with it.
411 means cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check. This one sounds like an IAC problem or the TPS isn't adjusted quite right. You're not really supposed to mess with the throttle stop screw, but some people have had good luck with it.
The computer can't control the lower RPM's so putting it in gear drops the RPM's causing it to stall. Reverse is usually lower than first so reverse would slow the engine more than first.
Sorry... I guess I shouldn't advise to turn the screw that has a sticker that says "don't turn this screw". 
I had to adjust mine (not really knowing what the correct adjustment is) because it had been turned before I got the truck. Mine was idling way too low, and tightening the screw brought the idle back up to spec and ended my issue with the truck dying when put in gear.
This does bring a good question, though - probably related. If my truck sits in gear for awhile (like at a long stop light), the idle drops. Usually around 650-700, but after sitting in gear for a minute or so, it'll work down to around 500 and barely wants to stay running.
Not trying to jack your thread, but does yours do that too? Hoping sean has some idea what's going on here...

I had to adjust mine (not really knowing what the correct adjustment is) because it had been turned before I got the truck. Mine was idling way too low, and tightening the screw brought the idle back up to spec and ended my issue with the truck dying when put in gear.
This does bring a good question, though - probably related. If my truck sits in gear for awhile (like at a long stop light), the idle drops. Usually around 650-700, but after sitting in gear for a minute or so, it'll work down to around 500 and barely wants to stay running.
Not trying to jack your thread, but does yours do that too? Hoping sean has some idea what's going on here...
Last edited by aliens8mycow; Nov 28, 2008 at 09:38 PM.
My idle goes crazy once in a while and I turn the key off and on real quick without letting the truck stall. This resets the IAC and stabilizes the idle. It's easier for mine though, it's a stick.
Running around 900 at idle, put it into drive and the idle drops to 800 and runs a little rough. I let it sit in park for around 5 minutes and the idle remained constant. At around 3 minutes I decided to turn the wheel and the idle drops to 600 and sometimes to 500 and it eventually stalled. I restarted the truck and it pulls in drive like it should put it into reverse and whamo. I have a new TPS that is set right, a new IAC, plugs, distributor, rotor, & wires, PCV valve & filter, and air filter. When the problem started back in the summer the first indication I had that something was wrong was when I put the truck in reverse and it stalled not a slow drawn out stall but a see you later, drop dead stall. I'm clearing the codes and I'm going to KOEO & KOER again.
Last edited by Ekenfecker; Nov 29, 2008 at 01:08 PM.


