Suggested Maint?
Thread Starter
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 249
From: Iowa
Suggested Maint?
I recently got a 94 F150 XLT 5.8 2wd auto with 300k. It drove fine the 100 miles it took to get it home. The only issue is the horn/cruise doesn't work, read something about a clockspring (I think) and that it should be done professionally due to airbag.
My question is what would you suggest that I do/replace to make sure a small fix now doesn't turn into something larger down the road?
I checked the dist cap, wires, plugs and they all look like they have been replaced fairly recently. There is a BUNCH of oil/crud build up on the bottom of the truck (don't remember for sure on what at the moment, but if I remember right is was in front of the oil pan) and it had a slow drip that was hitting the exhaust, very slow drip. I only noticed it because I could smell the oil burning. The truck is in really great shape, especially for the mileage, but I have some time before I am going to be driving it and figured if there are some things that should be done now is the time to do it.
So, any suggestions/advice?
My question is what would you suggest that I do/replace to make sure a small fix now doesn't turn into something larger down the road?
I checked the dist cap, wires, plugs and they all look like they have been replaced fairly recently. There is a BUNCH of oil/crud build up on the bottom of the truck (don't remember for sure on what at the moment, but if I remember right is was in front of the oil pan) and it had a slow drip that was hitting the exhaust, very slow drip. I only noticed it because I could smell the oil burning. The truck is in really great shape, especially for the mileage, but I have some time before I am going to be driving it and figured if there are some things that should be done now is the time to do it.
So, any suggestions/advice?
I
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 827
Likes: 37
From: Jonesboro, AR
For the crud on the bottom of the truck, mine also had this. I used a power washer and a drill with a wire wheel. I used about 8 cans of oven cleaner and in segments I soaked down the undercarriage and let it sit for about an hour and power washed it. It does a great job at helping to remove grime from your frame, engine, tranny, I beams, and any other greasy dirty metal part. I heard it was not safe for use on plastics or anything so I didn't use it on the top of the engine. I need to do it again but it looked 100% better after that. This summer I will be pulling off my bed and doing a thorough cleaning and painting my frame and suspension.
5 Year Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 263
From: San Antonio, Texas
Use Engine Brite Heavy Duty Gel. This stuff works great. But buy a lot if it
s really dirty. Cover everything and let it sit for a while. Then power wash it off. If everything doesn't come off the first time the wait for it to dry completely before putting more gel on. Then wash again.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,885
Likes: 70
From: Alabama
About the clock spring, I just disconnected my battery for about 30 mins before tearing into my steering column when I replaced my actuator rod. 30 mins should be plenty sufficient for the air bag power to die off, but to be sure you can go an hour.
Thread Starter
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 249
From: Iowa
Thanks guys, I already grabbed a bottle of the engine cleaner gel but was going to wait for it to warm up a little so I could wash it off before I used it.
For the clockspring- is this steering wheel hard to remove? I had to take the column off of my old S10 and it was pretty simple, though it didn't have an airbag, so I have done something similar before but wasn't really going to mess with it unless I was sure I could do it. Don't really plan on taking this thing on to many long drives so the cruise doesn't bother me but sometimes you just need a horn.
I was going to try to bleed all the brake lines/replacing brake fluid, checking pads/rotors at that time. I wanted to also hit the ATF, coolant, and oil. I wanted to replace the diff fluid but have never done it before, seemed easy from what I read. Any other fluids that I have missed?
Is it easy to get these wheel bearings off? And is it better to just replace them or would repacking them suffice? I only ask about these because it seems like all my friends have a bad wheel bearing on at least one vehicle and I wanted to just prevent that from being an issue later on.
Are there any sensors or other things that tend to go out? Or should just be replaced after 20 years?
More of a cosmetic thing: What is the easiest way/preferred way that you guys clean your vehicle's interior? It's in good shape just dirty, I have a shampooer that I always used to clean our other cars but none of them had oily/grease footprint like this thing does. Are there any foams that you can spray on, scrub, and then just vacuum out, or trick that you know of to make removing these stains?
For the clockspring- is this steering wheel hard to remove? I had to take the column off of my old S10 and it was pretty simple, though it didn't have an airbag, so I have done something similar before but wasn't really going to mess with it unless I was sure I could do it. Don't really plan on taking this thing on to many long drives so the cruise doesn't bother me but sometimes you just need a horn.
I was going to try to bleed all the brake lines/replacing brake fluid, checking pads/rotors at that time. I wanted to also hit the ATF, coolant, and oil. I wanted to replace the diff fluid but have never done it before, seemed easy from what I read. Any other fluids that I have missed?
Is it easy to get these wheel bearings off? And is it better to just replace them or would repacking them suffice? I only ask about these because it seems like all my friends have a bad wheel bearing on at least one vehicle and I wanted to just prevent that from being an issue later on.
Are there any sensors or other things that tend to go out? Or should just be replaced after 20 years?
More of a cosmetic thing: What is the easiest way/preferred way that you guys clean your vehicle's interior? It's in good shape just dirty, I have a shampooer that I always used to clean our other cars but none of them had oily/grease footprint like this thing does. Are there any foams that you can spray on, scrub, and then just vacuum out, or trick that you know of to make removing these stains?
Martin
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,036
Likes: 260
From: Lehi, Utah
In reply to interior cleaning. Few months back my dad dumped a giant soda in truck. Used a bucket of dawn and water to scrub it down, shop vac to remove worked great. Cleaned all the little oily spots and dirty seats.
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Thread Starter
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 249
From: Iowa
Thanks
I was also going to do the TB, got some cleaner was planning on just cleaning it while it was on the truck if it's not to bad. Did have a question about the recommended way to clean the intake on the 5.8: Did my girlfriends Eldorado with the Northstar engine and followed this:
The following is straight from a service manual, in regards to the TSB issued for a "cold knock" on the northstar, caused by excessive carbon.
Before considering major engine repairs, the technician should perform the following procedure to clean carbon from the engine combustion chambers.
Note: This procedure must be strictly followed. Hydrostatic lock may result causing severe engine damage if this procedure is not strictly adhered to. (that's important.)
1) Obtain one can of GM TOP engine cleaner (TEC) P/N 1052626.
2) Start the engine and bring the engine coolant temp to 200 degrees on the instrument panel gauge. (220F on a scan tool)
IMPORTANT: Do not raise the engine speed above idle
3) with the engine idling, disconnect the PCV hose from the PCV valve and slowly spray the TEC into the end of the hose.
4) Raise the engine speed to approximately 2000 rpm until you see a cloud of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe, then shut off the engine.
5) Let the vehicle sit for at least 20 minutes, preferably overnight. This allows time for the TEC to act on the carbon deposits.
6) Once the soak period has been completed, start the engine and proceed to remove the remainder of the TEC from the engine by increasing the engine speed to 2000rpm until the white smoke has diminished.
This was fairly easy really made a big difference in how it ran/idled, well worth the $12 can and loved all the smoke it made after letting it sit overnight, my neighbors all freaked.
This also required the plugs and oil to be changed within 100 miles of the service to remove any remaining cleaner.
Is there a different way that these should be done and if so could someone either link or post the procedure?
I was also going to do the TB, got some cleaner was planning on just cleaning it while it was on the truck if it's not to bad. Did have a question about the recommended way to clean the intake on the 5.8: Did my girlfriends Eldorado with the Northstar engine and followed this:
The following is straight from a service manual, in regards to the TSB issued for a "cold knock" on the northstar, caused by excessive carbon.
Before considering major engine repairs, the technician should perform the following procedure to clean carbon from the engine combustion chambers.
Note: This procedure must be strictly followed. Hydrostatic lock may result causing severe engine damage if this procedure is not strictly adhered to. (that's important.)
1) Obtain one can of GM TOP engine cleaner (TEC) P/N 1052626.
2) Start the engine and bring the engine coolant temp to 200 degrees on the instrument panel gauge. (220F on a scan tool)
IMPORTANT: Do not raise the engine speed above idle
3) with the engine idling, disconnect the PCV hose from the PCV valve and slowly spray the TEC into the end of the hose.
4) Raise the engine speed to approximately 2000 rpm until you see a cloud of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe, then shut off the engine.
5) Let the vehicle sit for at least 20 minutes, preferably overnight. This allows time for the TEC to act on the carbon deposits.
6) Once the soak period has been completed, start the engine and proceed to remove the remainder of the TEC from the engine by increasing the engine speed to 2000rpm until the white smoke has diminished.
This was fairly easy really made a big difference in how it ran/idled, well worth the $12 can and loved all the smoke it made after letting it sit overnight, my neighbors all freaked.
This also required the plugs and oil to be changed within 100 miles of the service to remove any remaining cleaner.
Is there a different way that these should be done and if so could someone either link or post the procedure?
Last edited by fltdriver; Mar 5, 2014 at 12:37 AM.
I
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 827
Likes: 37
From: Jonesboro, AR
Thanks
I was also going to do the TB, got some cleaner was planning on just cleaning it while it was on the truck if it's not to bad. Did have a question about the recommended way to clean the intake on the 5.8: Did my girlfriends Eldorado with the Northstar engine and followed this:
The following is straight from a service manual, in regards to the TSB issued for a "cold knock" on the northstar, caused by excessive carbon.
Before considering major engine repairs, the technician should perform the following procedure to clean carbon from the engine combustion chambers.
Note: This procedure must be strictly followed. Hydrostatic lock may result causing severe engine damage if this procedure is not strictly adhered to. (that's important.)
1) Obtain one can of GM TOP engine cleaner (TEC) P/N 1052626.
2) Start the engine and bring the engine coolant temp to 200 degrees on the instrument panel gauge. (220F on a scan tool)
IMPORTANT: Do not raise the engine speed above idle
3) with the engine idling, disconnect the PCV hose from the PCV valve and slowly spray the TEC into the end of the hose.
4) Raise the engine speed to approximately 2000 rpm until you see a cloud of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe, then shut off the engine.
5) Let the vehicle sit for at least 20 minutes, preferably overnight. This allows time for the TEC to act on the carbon deposits.
6) Once the soak period has been completed, start the engine and proceed to remove the remainder of the TEC from the engine by increasing the engine speed to 2000rpm until the white smoke has diminished.
This was fairly easy really made a big difference in how it ran/idled, well worth the $12 can and loved all the smoke it made after letting it sit overnight, my neighbors all freaked.
Is there a different way that these should be done and if so could someone either link or post the procedure?
I was also going to do the TB, got some cleaner was planning on just cleaning it while it was on the truck if it's not to bad. Did have a question about the recommended way to clean the intake on the 5.8: Did my girlfriends Eldorado with the Northstar engine and followed this:
The following is straight from a service manual, in regards to the TSB issued for a "cold knock" on the northstar, caused by excessive carbon.
Before considering major engine repairs, the technician should perform the following procedure to clean carbon from the engine combustion chambers.
Note: This procedure must be strictly followed. Hydrostatic lock may result causing severe engine damage if this procedure is not strictly adhered to. (that's important.)
1) Obtain one can of GM TOP engine cleaner (TEC) P/N 1052626.
2) Start the engine and bring the engine coolant temp to 200 degrees on the instrument panel gauge. (220F on a scan tool)
IMPORTANT: Do not raise the engine speed above idle
3) with the engine idling, disconnect the PCV hose from the PCV valve and slowly spray the TEC into the end of the hose.
4) Raise the engine speed to approximately 2000 rpm until you see a cloud of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe, then shut off the engine.
5) Let the vehicle sit for at least 20 minutes, preferably overnight. This allows time for the TEC to act on the carbon deposits.
6) Once the soak period has been completed, start the engine and proceed to remove the remainder of the TEC from the engine by increasing the engine speed to 2000rpm until the white smoke has diminished.
This was fairly easy really made a big difference in how it ran/idled, well worth the $12 can and loved all the smoke it made after letting it sit overnight, my neighbors all freaked.
Is there a different way that these should be done and if so could someone either link or post the procedure?