Well here it goes...

Stock 89 f150 -

-Summit shorty headers, welded to 2 1/4 true dual with thrush turbos (no cats)
-Comp cams single timing chain kit
-Summit 4400 CAM (windsor firing order)
-Comp cam lifters
- meiling (or whatever) push rods
-California A9s cpu
-California cpu matching MAF
-Custom y-pipe for intake side w/cone filter
-New injector o-rings
- MSD Distributor / coil
- Regular autolite coppers

I left the stock injectors on the truck and using the help from "ford fuel injection's" website I very meticulously repinned a 60 pin connector out of an e40d equiped f series and hardwired it to the existing speed density wiring, using pinouts to match everything up properly of course. This includes SEFI/MAF

I'm running bosch left/right bank o2 sensors
Turned the MAP into a BAR (easiest part of the swap)

The smog pump/hoses/egr/thermactor system has been entirely removed aside from the electrical. I left those 2 connectors by the coil plugged in and I had the remaining vacuum lines off of the connectors ran back into themselves.

I made a block off plate for the EGR on the intake and welded a bolt into the existing threaded bung thing I cut off the egr itself for the lower intake. Also welded a bolt into the crossover tube for the thermactor system where the check valve went.

the upper/lower intake got a solvent bath overnight and everything has new gaskets and I'm quite pleased with the turnout. The only problem I have now is that on Idle it runs pig rich. I mean you can lean over the engine and just smell fuel but I checked the inectors on idle and nothings phyiscally leaking.

when you raise the rpms its smooth as butter. Going from a passenger car firing order/bank fire/speed density setup to this was like night and day however with it being quicker I'm really only noticing about a 20 extra miles a tank increase and it just doesn't feel as fast as it should be. It feels like its really struggling to speed up on the highways but theres no bucking/missing whatsoever. It feels like theres an extra 1000 pounds in the back.

Now for the pics -











BTW the MAF was turned right side up and there is a silicon coupler in place of the duct tape

I'm gonna buy an OBDI reader tomorrow and see what codes aside from the EGR i'm throwing. Truck is AOD with 3.55 with cheap 265/something sears tires.

The way I see it is this should have felt like I dropped a slightly modded HO motor in but it doesnt quite feel like it even knowing how heavy these trucks are.

As for the running rich problem....is the MAF to far away from the intake? This being a mustang ecu/maf is the truck intake to large of a volume for the ecu/maf to compensate? Regardless I've gotta wait for the scan tool.

 

what are the cam specs and what is the timing set at and where did you install the cam at?

what rear end gears do you have....?

what timing chain and gears did you use?

 

Timing is set to 12 degrees advance with the spout removed of course. I'm thinking this needs to be advanced some more because of the idle quality...its quite bad atm.

I'm using a summit 4400 Cam shaft specs:

Cam Style - Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,200-4,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 204
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 214
Duration at 050 inch Lift 204 int./214 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration 272
Advertised Duration 262 int./272 exh.Intake
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.448 in.Exhaust
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.472 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.448 int./0.472 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 112

thats off summits website, it was a cheap cam but much better then what I had.

The timing chain set is a comp cam 3230 high energy single. The old one was so stretched you could have practically popped the chain off by hand.

All the work was done by me and a friend that used to mess around with 5.0's in the shop we work at

OH Also the truck has stock 3.55 lsd's front/rear

 

Also I've been doing some searching and remembered a problem I had when setting the timing. I basically was just spinning the distributor 1 tooth at a time until the truck started then set the timing acordingly with my timing light assuming i had the dist. in the right spot. When I set the timing for factory10 degrees the rpm's were so low it dam near stalled and were talking about like 400-500 rpm. I think I may be off 1 tooth because with the timing "advanced" 12 degrees it barely coughs above 500rpm and generally idles like ****.

 

Why the hell would you use a California computer?

 

Good question. Pull off all the smog equipment then use a smog specific computer.

 

Well the ecu in question was attached to a 347 that wasn't finished yet and the owner (friend of mine) decided to start parting everything out (89 mustang 20th an.) as well after finding out his wife was pregnant again so I got the maf/ecu for 50$ each and it saved me a trip to the junk yard I guess. That was back when I lived in AZ though and I finally got around to doing the swap.

As far as I know there is little difference between the a9 mustang sefi/maf computers and the guy I got it from had no complaints from his mustangs performance when it was running. He also mentioned the ECU had been tweaked a bit including the fact that the connector on the back was opened up and a tuning company I guess put their sticker on it at some point. Can't remember the name but its long gone now (the sticker and company) and whether any of that is true it was still running on 19lbs injectors anyway.

 

there is NO such thing as being off one tooth when it comes to the distributor....thats why you can turn them...you drop it in at #1 and then turn it to line it up with the reluctor wheel....you can put #1 at ANY terminal tower on the cap and it will work as long as the others are in order too...

I would check firing order and make sure you dont have a plug wire crossed and from the sound of things I suspect a vacuum leak....could be internal....like intake gaskets...

 

Figured out my problem. Since the intake/throttle body are from an f150 I didn't set the TPS properly. I checked the green wire and it was at .77 so I used the adjustment screw for the throttle body stop plate and turned it until I got to .985 then set the timing at 12. Runs really good now. Still seems to be a little down on power but I haven't tweaked everything yet.

Was I supposed to physically turn the TPS with the throttle bodies closed to sort of calibrate it at .99 or was my method good enough? If anything I would think my way would lean out the mixture but..then again this engine being fuel injected with 2 o2 sensors and a maf it shouldn't really matter.

 

Some TPSs are adjustable, I don't know if yours is but what you did was not the right way to adjust it.