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still missing at low rpms...

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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 02:06 PM
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Default still missing at low rpms...

ok so bout a month ago i changed my spark plugs and wires and have been have this missing problem since i changed them...got a new cap n rotor and still no improvment..also checkd the gaps there good and got (3) different sets of wires...check engine like came on so i thought that was the problem...fix the egr and evp no check engine light anymore but it still missing at idle....any ideas?

-1995 4.9l
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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Have you located which cylinder?
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 03:56 PM
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which cylinder is miss firing? no i mean it could b something else idk...
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 04:07 PM
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If the problem started after you changed parts, then it leads to suggest a review of what you did.

From personal experience - have had problems with cheapie wire sets being bad out of the box, as well as the infamous off-by-one on the cap where the wires were in the right order, but one post off. D'Oh!
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by wde3477
If the problem started after you changed parts, then it leads to suggest a review of what you did.

From personal experience - have had problems with cheapie wire sets being bad out of the box, as well as the infamous off-by-one on the cap where the wires were in the right order, but one post off. D'Oh!

i mean i have been throught (3) sets of wires...from motorcraft-duralast....also i mean all the wires have to b right i checked it 20 times...then cap is labeled #1 on it anyway...

should i try another set of wires?
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by wde3477
If the problem started after you changed parts, then it leads to suggest a review of what you did.

From personal experience - have had problems with cheapie wire sets being bad out of the box, as well as the infamous off-by-one on the cap where the wires were in the right order, but one post off. D'Oh!
X2. Like a cracked spark plug insulator. Also a coil that's weakening w/ age/use. That's why you're given a plug gap "range" (.042-.046). Because coils get weaker w/ use. Eliminate all that crap by upgrading to a 48K volt Coil, brass Cap & rotor, & some real plug wires, like Ford racing 9mm's. Not Autozone "Super Duper Spark Troopers". Wires are one thing that will bite you in the *** every time you go "budget/ those aught to be good enough.

If your sure it isn't ignition related, this stuff alway's helps Idle quality & throttle response.
https://www.f150forum.com/f33/how-se...-1991-a-31505/

Last edited by ymeski56; Dec 18, 2010 at 04:55 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 04:51 PM
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so r u saying i should change my coil?
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Sickler
so r u saying i should change my coil?
I say you should run error code scans before replacing "anything". & a Seafoam treatment could only improve drivability.

Codes: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-re...es-obdi-10907/

Seafoam: https://www.f150forum.com/f33/how-se...-1991-a-31505/
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
I say you should run error code scans before replacing "anything". & a Seafoam treatment could only improve drivability.

Codes: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-re...es-obdi-10907/

Seafoam: https://www.f150forum.com/f33/how-se...-1991-a-31505/

no codes are coming up...also did seafoam last week...
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Sickler
no codes are coming up...also did seafoam last week...
No such thing as "no codes".
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/heads-...05/#post623219
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