It should be asked....is the new TPS a motorcraft part? If not then that is probably at least 50% of your problem.

Fixing the vacuum lines to the EGR and the solenoid might fix the first 4 codes. 5/32" ID tube does the trick for most of the stuff but I also needed 7/32" ID tube for the A/C and MAP sensor vacuum connections.

 

Yeah just picked up the vacuum hoses. I'll let you know if anything changes after.
I also tested the Egr, plunges fine; and, I tested the Evp, came out with the right readings.
No it is not a motorcraft TPS, but it tested out alright. Even after testing you think this could be the culprit?

 

It's one of the few parts on these trucks that is recommended to be only replaced with motorcraft. I guess the non-motorcraft varieties have caused problems for some folks.

When it cranks but won't start, are you getting spark from the coil? How about fuel pressure?

 

Vacuum lines all updated with rubber, wow that plastic stuff was garbage! Still getting same symptoms so I'm on my way to pick up a loaner fuel pressure tester. Will check spark as well and post results.

 

When I pulled my vacuum harness I gave it the proper sending off




Fuel pressure and spark will hopefully tell the story.

 

20 psi at the rail if I didn't the pressure test correctly...finally got my hands on a tester, so I think that's the start of finding my issue

 

No change in pressure pinching off the return line

 

So, during the fuel pressure test, I would turn the key to run without cranking and it would rise to 20 and drop back to zero. While cranking it would stay at 20. Is that supposed to happen? Obviously the pressure is low I just wanted to make sure that wasn't a sign of something else. Also put a new fuel filter on for the hell of it. It did this on both tanks as I have dual tanks. Any advice from here would be great, thanks y'all

 

The drop from 20 to zero suggests a wide open leak in the system. It should hold pressure for at least several minutes.
Check the vacuum line from the regulator for fuel smell. Try pressurising the system with the vac line disconnected. Could have a bad diaphragm inside the regulator.
Or an injector could be not closing tight - sometimes they just have dirt on the seats inside and fuel injector cleaner will help.
The only other place pressure can leak (other than on the ground) is at the check valves in the pumps, but both pumps leaking the same at the same time is not so likely - you would also get cross-filling if that was happening.
I'd suspect your regulator first, then your injectors. Both pumps could be weak but also not very likely.

 

Thanks for the reply, are you suggesting I pull the injectors and clean them since the trick will not run? I also noticed a metal pipe that is supposed to be connected to the exhaust(rusted off completely), that runs up the back side of the engine to a little valve looking thing, that attached to another valve that I had hooked vacuum lines to when I replaced them all. Sorry if that is not a good description. Could this be part of the issue? I'm not sure what it is, it's dark now but I'll try to post a picture in daylight. Thanks for all the help!