Stalling While Driving
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: Tennessee
Stalling While Driving
1987 F150 XLT Lariat, 2wd, 302 v8, 120k miles, automatic
I've been having some issues lately with my truck and cannot narrow it down. I can drive 20-30 minutes (15 miles) and it have no problem at all, then it won't start (cranks, but takes a while to actually start). Sometimes, it will stall on the road (terrifying..) and start right back up. Of the 10 or so times it's stalled on the road, it starts right up without any issue. Of course, I want that problem to stop entirely because eventually it could happen when I can't pull over safely. When it does stall, all of the functions work, including radio, headlights, and auto windows. The power steering works long enough for me to get into a parking lot. After it comes to a stop, it starts right back up. It's almost as if it just 'bucks' one time and loses power. It's not an uphill or downhill issue, as every single time it's happened is on flat, relatively smooth pavement.
Recently, I had a mechanic change the ignition module and throttle position sensor, and it drove fine for a while. I recently discovered that my battery is not the correct one for this truck. That will be changed in the next few days when I can get to it. I have bought an ignition switch that I haven't changed yet. The in tank and rail fuel pumps are new and functioning. I'm afraid it may be something electrical, but it could be spark related. The plugs, wires, distributor cap and coil, and ignition coil are all new and in working order, so I'm leaning towards it being the ignition switch cutting off and the battery being incorrect.
Any ideas?
I've been having some issues lately with my truck and cannot narrow it down. I can drive 20-30 minutes (15 miles) and it have no problem at all, then it won't start (cranks, but takes a while to actually start). Sometimes, it will stall on the road (terrifying..) and start right back up. Of the 10 or so times it's stalled on the road, it starts right up without any issue. Of course, I want that problem to stop entirely because eventually it could happen when I can't pull over safely. When it does stall, all of the functions work, including radio, headlights, and auto windows. The power steering works long enough for me to get into a parking lot. After it comes to a stop, it starts right back up. It's almost as if it just 'bucks' one time and loses power. It's not an uphill or downhill issue, as every single time it's happened is on flat, relatively smooth pavement.
Recently, I had a mechanic change the ignition module and throttle position sensor, and it drove fine for a while. I recently discovered that my battery is not the correct one for this truck. That will be changed in the next few days when I can get to it. I have bought an ignition switch that I haven't changed yet. The in tank and rail fuel pumps are new and functioning. I'm afraid it may be something electrical, but it could be spark related. The plugs, wires, distributor cap and coil, and ignition coil are all new and in working order, so I'm leaning towards it being the ignition switch cutting off and the battery being incorrect.
Any ideas?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,918
Likes: 489
From: Oregon
Most likely the pickup coil inside the distributor - they are prone to fail intermittently, and when they do they cause a complete loss of spark. Ignition switch is possible too.
Do some googling around on "PIP sensor" or "pickup coil" and see what you find - I think you will agree.
Do some googling around on "PIP sensor" or "pickup coil" and see what you find - I think you will agree.
Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 11,256
Likes: 1,770
From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
The truck's details need to be in your signature so we don't have to go looking for them as this thread progresses. And there should be more of them...
(phone app link)
If you suspect an ignition system fault, you should follow the diagnostic procedure in Haynes Ch.5 (usually Sec.5 or7, depending on edition):
(phone app link)
Why exactly was the ig. module changed? What test did it fail? Same question for the TPS, and EACH other new part? What brand/PN/source is the replacement for each? If the battery is working, it doesn't need to be changed. Don't waste that money or effort. But you should make sure the terminals are good - read all the captions in this album:
(phone app link)
Same for the ig.sw. - until you know it has a problem, leave it alone. This caption explains how it's supposed to work; if it does, it doesn't need to be changed:
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
If you suspect an ignition system fault, you should follow the diagnostic procedure in Haynes Ch.5 (usually Sec.5 or7, depending on edition):
(phone app link)
Why exactly was the ig. module changed? What test did it fail? Same question for the TPS, and EACH other new part? What brand/PN/source is the replacement for each? If the battery is working, it doesn't need to be changed. Don't waste that money or effort. But you should make sure the terminals are good - read all the captions in this album:
(phone app link)
Same for the ig.sw. - until you know it has a problem, leave it alone. This caption explains how it's supposed to work; if it does, it doesn't need to be changed:
(phone app link)
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: Tennessee
Most likely the pickup coil inside the distributor - they are prone to fail intermittently, and when they do they cause a complete loss of spark. Ignition switch is possible too.
Do some googling around on "PIP sensor" or "pickup coil" and see what you find - I think you will agree.
Do some googling around on "PIP sensor" or "pickup coil" and see what you find - I think you will agree.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: Tennessee
The truck's details need to be in your signature so we don't have to go looking for them as this thread progresses. And there should be more of them...
(phone app link)
If you suspect an ignition system fault, you should follow the diagnostic procedure in Haynes Ch.5 (usually Sec.5 or7, depending on edition):
(phone app link)
Why exactly was the ig. module changed? What test did it fail? Same question for the TPS, and EACH other new part? What brand/PN/source is the replacement for each? If the battery is working, it doesn't need to be changed. Don't waste that money or effort. But you should make sure the terminals are good - read all the captions in this album:
(phone app link)
Same for the ig.sw. - until you know it has a problem, leave it alone. This caption explains how it's supposed to work; if it does, it doesn't need to be changed:
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
If you suspect an ignition system fault, you should follow the diagnostic procedure in Haynes Ch.5 (usually Sec.5 or7, depending on edition):
(phone app link)
Why exactly was the ig. module changed? What test did it fail? Same question for the TPS, and EACH other new part? What brand/PN/source is the replacement for each? If the battery is working, it doesn't need to be changed. Don't waste that money or effort. But you should make sure the terminals are good - read all the captions in this album:
(phone app link)
Same for the ig.sw. - until you know it has a problem, leave it alone. This caption explains how it's supposed to work; if it does, it doesn't need to be changed:
(phone app link)
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 63
From: Raleigh, NC
Most likely the pickup coil inside the distributor - they are prone to fail intermittently, and when they do they cause a complete loss of spark. Ignition switch is possible too.
Do some googling around on "PIP sensor" or "pickup coil" and see what you find - I think you will agree.
Do some googling around on "PIP sensor" or "pickup coil" and see what you find - I think you will agree.
The second time, I did a lot of the things you mentioned. Then I figured out that the previous mechanic replaced my distributor with a used one. Once I replaced it with a new one, I have not had a problem (with that) since then, 5 plus years.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: Tennessee
I tend to agree with this. I have had that problem twice. First time, I had a mechanic work on it and it took a week for him to figure it out. He replaced the distributor.
The second time, I did a lot of the things you mentioned. Then I figured out that the previous mechanic replaced my distributor with a used one. Once I replaced it with a new one, I have not had a problem (with that) since then, 5 plus years.
The second time, I did a lot of the things you mentioned. Then I figured out that the previous mechanic replaced my distributor with a used one. Once I replaced it with a new one, I have not had a problem (with that) since then, 5 plus years.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 63
From: Raleigh, NC
There are 3 actions you can take:
1. Start replacing parts and hope you solve the problem. You can ask and read advice, decide what path to go, and start replacing. Unless you are a capable mechanic, you will question yourself and the uncertainty will drive you crazy. I suggest you replace one part at a time, drive it for a while and see what happens. Otherwise you will never really be sure what the problem is.
2. Take the truck to a mechanic. Generally they will find the problem and mentally you might be more at ease. But this is the most expensive way.
3. Learn to do diagnostics. This usually is the least expensive way, you learn more about the truck, and there is some peace of mind knowing that you have solved the issue rather then guessing at it. Diagnostics can't be daunting if you don't feel comfortable with your skills, but you will become more confident with your abilities in the future.
In any event, there are all sorts of opinions and solutions that you can follow. But there is generally one answer. If you are not comfortable with your abilities and have the money, I suggest you take it to a mechanic and tell him about your research into the problem. Mechanics are human too. If you want to tackle it yourself, I suggest you follow the suggestions that Steve83 are making. You will gain a better understanding of your truck and be better equipped to tackle the next problem.
And yes, there will be more problems.
Good luck
1. Start replacing parts and hope you solve the problem. You can ask and read advice, decide what path to go, and start replacing. Unless you are a capable mechanic, you will question yourself and the uncertainty will drive you crazy. I suggest you replace one part at a time, drive it for a while and see what happens. Otherwise you will never really be sure what the problem is.
2. Take the truck to a mechanic. Generally they will find the problem and mentally you might be more at ease. But this is the most expensive way.
3. Learn to do diagnostics. This usually is the least expensive way, you learn more about the truck, and there is some peace of mind knowing that you have solved the issue rather then guessing at it. Diagnostics can't be daunting if you don't feel comfortable with your skills, but you will become more confident with your abilities in the future.
In any event, there are all sorts of opinions and solutions that you can follow. But there is generally one answer. If you are not comfortable with your abilities and have the money, I suggest you take it to a mechanic and tell him about your research into the problem. Mechanics are human too. If you want to tackle it yourself, I suggest you follow the suggestions that Steve83 are making. You will gain a better understanding of your truck and be better equipped to tackle the next problem.
And yes, there will be more problems.
Good luck