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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 05:05 PM
  #11  
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From: Nova scotia
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Get it for 50 rattle can it shiney and craigslist it. I drove straight axles, and i beams, don t know why people sas these trucks.
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 05:18 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Scraptor
Get it for 50 rattle can it shiney and craigslist it. I drove straight axles, and i beams, don t know why people sas these trucks.
Less tire wear
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 05:23 PM
  #13  
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If your TTB is maintained then you shouldn't have excessive tire wear
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 05:39 PM
  #14  
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i think the only time a solid axle is "better" is if you offroad alot or want an insane amount of lift. my TTB in my fords have been great to me and iv had no weird tire wear. my ram1500 has a solid axle and rides really rough off road. (nothing compared to my 250 lol)
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 05:45 PM
  #15  
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I think a short long arm ifs from a dodge 1500 2wd would be nice on one of these trucks
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 06:37 AM
  #16  
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They are getting 5.5 to 8 inches of lift with the sas. A softer coil is needed to better the ride. Spring buckets and cups are changed out to accommodate the spring. Longer radius arms are good but not necessary. A longer arm will assist in getting better amounts of articulation.with the longer arm a new frame mount is needed, sometimes causing the trans mount to be modified. Then there's the track bar issue. An upper track bar mount will need to be added. The track bar runs from driver side frame to passenger side axle. Depending on positioning the cross member may need to be trimmed for clearance. The lift is needed to allow the pumpkin to clear the cross member. This then gets You into steering geometry with a requirements to change out TREs, drag link and tie rod to accommodate and beef up due to the lift. Don't forget brakelines and longer shocks and mounts.

It is a substantial mod requiring good fabrication skills ... Although James duff sells a kit. It is not cheap. This kit combined with overhauling the axle will get you into no less the 3k to do it right. SAS is not for the faint of heart.

What you get is a better type of lift then frame brackets TTB uses. It is much more beefy and able to handle the rigors of serious rock climbing. You will have better articulation with longer arms. The articulation is forced which aids in traction. The solid axle can better handle a locker as well which gives even better traction. Also your alignment technicalities are eliminated.

Finally, now you have all this lift up front. Guess what? It becomes necessary to move to the back.

Gentlemen the sky is the limit where this mod is concerned with custom springs, chromo axles, driveshaft mods and OX joints, selectable lockers, rear disk brakes. You name it guys have done it, and its a job keeping cost down. Good luck if you decide to go through it.

Last edited by 5Rangers; Jun 11, 2012 at 08:31 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 12:32 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 5Rangers
They are getting 5.5 to 8 inches of lift with the sas. A softer coil is needed to better the ride. Spring buckets and cups are changed out to accommodate the spring. Longer radius arms are good but not necessary. A longer arm will assist in getting better amounts of articulation.with the longer arm a new frame mount is needed, sometimes causing the trans mount to be modified. Then there's the track bar issue. An upper track bar mount will need to be added. The track bar runs from driver side frame to passenger side axle. Depending on positioning the cross member may need to be trimmed for clearance. The lift is needed to allow the pumpkin to clear the cross member. This then gets You into steering geometry with a requirements to change out TREs, drag link and tie rod to accommodate and beef up due to the lift. Don't forget brakelines and longer shocks and mounts.

It is a substantial mod requiring good fabrication skills ... Although James duff sells a kit. It is not cheap. This kit combined with overhauling the axle will get you into no less the 3k to do it right. SAS is not for the faint of heart.

What you get is a better type of lift then frame brackets TTB uses. It is much more beefy and able to handle the rigors of serious rock climbing. You will have better articulation with longer arms. The articulation is forced which aids in traction. The solid axle can better handle a locker as well which gives even better traction. Also your alignment technicalities are eliminated.

Finally, now you have all this lift up front. Guess what? It becomes necessary to move to the back.

Gentlemen the sky is the limit where this mod is concerned with custom springs, chromo axles, driveshaft mods and OX joints, selectable lockers, rear disk brakes. You name it guys have done it, and its a job keeping cost down. Good luck if you decide to go through it.
That middle part is what I was tring to say
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 01:25 AM
  #18  
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Ive done the swap using the ttb springs and also another reason4 doing the swap it that the f150 ttb doesn't hold up 2 te wate of a plow very well ...
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 04:44 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Zach_Bailey
Ive done the swap using the ttb springs and also another reason4 doing the swap it that the f150 ttb doesn't hold up 2 te wate of a plow very well ...
My understanding is that using ttb springs will result in a fairly harsh ride. In your case maybe this is mitigated by the weight of the plow?
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 02:21 AM
  #20  
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Well yes it does give a stiff ride especially sence I used the most heavy duty ttb springs I could find ... but the truck was built 4 plowing and its never used for anything elce
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