I wonder how much work is involved in this. Maybe just drop the pan and there it is?? Automatics scare me far too much to work them on my own. And considering I only paid $700 for this truck, I think I can live with it.

 

On the GrandPrix yes, you drop the pan and pull the trans filter, then the valve body is right there. It unbolts and you just switch everything out and reinstall. And then you can change the filter while you're at it. I've never seen the inside of the e4od, as my truck is a manual, so I'm not sure if it would be as simple. But I would think so.

I found this, looks like a pain, but I don't think it would be as bad as it sounds.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/90...t-install.html

 

That makes it look pretty simple. Unbolt the pan and there it is. Pricey part though...

 

Changing the solenoid block should be easy to change just some bolts to remove.

 

I think?

 

Diagram of E40d transmission. You can see where the solenoid block is located.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/26073...+exploded+view

 

The solenoid pack is easy to do on the e4od if that's what you got

 

Get one from a junkyard, hope it works, and go for it. Get one from a smashed up truck so you can assume it was running when it got clobbered.

 

Sometimes it's difficult to find a scrap yard that will strip transmissions if the trans is still good but it's worth a shot. If you want to test out if it's the solinoid pack start your truck and unplug the harness on the passenger side of the trans and see how it does. It should drive fine but won't have overdrive...

 

Well, I solved my problem! I drove around not bothering to fix it because it just didn't bother me enough. I threw in a new TPS and of course that didn't fix it. Finally, the CEL came on and stayed on, so I decided to take it to Advanced Auto and get it scanned. Well, they dont scan ODB1, so I went down the street to O'Reily's and the dude there didn't know how to pick his nose, much less run a scanner. So in a final attempt I drove to another O'Reily's and after 30 minutes of the two guys trying to figure out how to use the scanner, it threw me a code I cant remember (DC113 I think?), but it was indicating that the Intake Temp Sensor's voltage was reading too high.

The new sensor was only $20, so I thought what the hell and bought it. Got home, needed a 1" deep socket, went back to the store, bought the socket, went home, took the old sensor out and couldn't believe what it looked like (forgot to take a pic, sorry, will get one tonight). It was coated in what looked like soot, or oil, or an oily carbon build. Looking in the hole, it looks like the inside of the intake manifold is in the same condition. But I just threw the new sensor in and took it for a spin.

And wow!! I cannot believe how much better this thing drives! It runs smoother, shifts better, the stutter and stalling is completely gone - it's amazing how much difference that little, cheap sensor made. Previously, when I was in Drive and shifted to 2, it just slammed into gear pretty hard. Then shifting to 1 I was worried it was going to snap a drive shaft. Now, it shifts sooo smoothly! It doesn't feel like I'm towing a house anymore. Cant say if it's affected the mpg's or not, but I bet it helped (I was getting 10-12 mpg).

Maybe I should make a new thread so this solution gets more exposure, sense so many other people seem to have the same problem.

Here's the part, O'Reily's calls it the Air Charge Temp Sensor:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2185&ppt=C0033