Hi all, new to the forum, looking for some advice.

I have a 93 4wd 150 with the I6. About 170k on it, new clutch and slave cylinder, new radiator, new altenator ( put a hole in the new radiator removing the frozen pivot bolt), and a lot of rust.

I have concerns over the rust. The rear brake line from LR to RR has broken. I tried to replace a section while on the road, but it sprung another leak in the same length. I was able to pinch off the line sealing it, and get home. Question here is: Is it reasonable to find this section at a junk yard and replace? Or should I buy the brake line from an auto store and bend and couple the thing together?

I will eventually replace all the brake lines that need it after inspecting the remainder of them.

Thanks for your input.

 

Parts store, bend, couple.

 

Wouldn't it be easier to get a brake line off a salvaged truck then go through the hassle of using a tubing bender and brake line flaring tool? If you already have the tools, go for it otherwise, it is more of a pain in the *** then it's worth, IMO.

 

The chances of finding a brake line in a junkyard that isn't also rusty are slim, at least in my neck of the woods

 

Exactly, plus you can buy different lengths and possibly not have to flare. Double flares are a pain.

 

Oh yea, I used to work at O'reilly's and should have remembered there are different lengths with the flare nuts on the ends.

You can take off yours, measure entire length including any bends and bring one flare nut with you to match up at your local parts store. If it's too long, you can always coil it up like some manu. do near the master cylinder for vibration dampening. Good call.

Yes, double flaring is a PITFA!

 

Stainless steel? I just bought a set for my shop truck (a chebby) from Inline Tube for about 65 bucks from the master to both front sides. They have the correct flare nuts to use with the stock hoses too and you never have to worry about rust again. For me I want to do them once and never worry again, the aftermarket pre-flared tube nev seems to last as long as OEM ....same as exhaust seems to last only a few years from the aftermarket. The other way to go if you are planning on doing all of them in the future is to use the super-flexible copper/nickel alloy tubing....avaialable online in kit form its very easy to run, never rusts and you can wrap it around a finger without it kinking. Also very easy to flare. Think the kits to do a whole truck were around 125.00 with 30' of tubing and all the flare nuts.

 

I'll second copper nickel lines. I'll have to take a pic of the weathered ones on my truck

 

After getting the wrong threaded lengths from a local unamed auto parts store that rymes with lance, I returned them for another set of the proper threaded 3/16 lengths.

I got a 40" and a 20" for the length across from the left to the right wheel and another 20" for the left sides.

A little PB and 18 years of rust came off in a few hours. I did not complete the install, as the day light and temperature started to fail me. I was doing some other DIY plumbing on the house while I waited for the PB to work. That $@#% toilet is still leaking!

I did get the right rear 40" length seated. So tomorrow will be tightening the rest of it up and bleeding the line.
Now do I start with the right rear and then bleed the left rear?
I havent looked at the front, I presume it has the same type of plumbing for the left to right. I just hope its in better shape.

Thanks for the input, it looks like I will be driving to PA from NC this week for a new motorcycle!

 

All the newer ones are poly coated too so they last better. I just replaced mine, and the closes I could find it was a little long, so I just put a couple bends along the axle to take out some of the length. Still looked good too. You have to watch the one on the drivers side to the drivers side wheel cylinder, you won't find one with both ends. I just switched out to a weatherhead adapter, 5718 was the part number if i recall, but don't quote me. If you do replace that one, you will see what I mean.