rotor replacement
Im getting ready to replace the front rotors on my 1995 f150 4x4 with manual locking hubs. I've been trying to read up on how to do this but different sources are saying different things. I've done rotors before, but none that require removal of the front hubs, so any pointers or tips would definitly help. Thanks
Eh, not too difficult, but do recommend to get a Haynes, Chiltons, or other suitable shop manual which has an exploded drawing of the parts.
Make sure you have the correct hub nut wrench - IIRC, it looks like a socket with four tangs extended. DO NOT get the cheapie one - it will likely fail before the correct torque is applied on re-installation.
There is an internal 'snap-ring' to watch for - not much to it, more like a piece of spring wire. This will likely be covered up or otherwise masked by grease, and can drive one nuts trying to figure out why the internals won't come out.
Make sure you have the correct hub nut wrench - IIRC, it looks like a socket with four tangs extended. DO NOT get the cheapie one - it will likely fail before the correct torque is applied on re-installation.
There is an internal 'snap-ring' to watch for - not much to it, more like a piece of spring wire. This will likely be covered up or otherwise masked by grease, and can drive one nuts trying to figure out why the internals won't come out.
Go to main forum > how-to section > how-to submissions.
I am the only post in that section (still hasn't been reviewed I suppose), and wrote a guide on switching from auto to manual hubs...I know that's not what you are hoping to do, and it doesn't take you through the actual rotor removal, but it will give you a nice starting point for removing the hubs.
Removing the hubs isn't terribly difficult, and the second one will go much faster than the first. The only thing beyond my guide to get the rotor off is the removal of the hub nut (looks like an X) with the special socket mentioned above and I think that's it.
Two extra points of advice: check wheel bearings while things are dismantled, and grease up your hubs when you go to put them back on.
I am the only post in that section (still hasn't been reviewed I suppose), and wrote a guide on switching from auto to manual hubs...I know that's not what you are hoping to do, and it doesn't take you through the actual rotor removal, but it will give you a nice starting point for removing the hubs.
Removing the hubs isn't terribly difficult, and the second one will go much faster than the first. The only thing beyond my guide to get the rotor off is the removal of the hub nut (looks like an X) with the special socket mentioned above and I think that's it.
Two extra points of advice: check wheel bearings while things are dismantled, and grease up your hubs when you go to put them back on.
With manual hubs very little grease is used on them, using a spray type grease will be your best bet. Replace the seals for the spindles and the wheel bearings. You do not have to remove the spindles to do the rotor, since you are already 90% there it will not be that much of an extra task to replace and repack the spindle bearings.
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I would not bother purchasing new hubs if all the components are in good shape. The stock hubs are manufactured by Warn for Ford. One of mine has the red Ford dial, the other has the black Warn. The parts have the same numbers on them and are identical to the Warn standard hub. If you replace them check to see if the replacement dials are full turn compared to quarter turn. The full turn are easier to turn than the quarter, the easiest to turn are the premium hubs. The premium hubs have the metal dial and use springs to engage and disengage meaning that you can always turn them.
Rookie mistake I suppose, thanks for the tip. I replaced mine with Warn premium manual hubs mainly because the came with the truck when I bought it, and the auto-locking factory ones were sticking some.



