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Replacing auto hubs with warns

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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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Default Replacing auto hubs with warns

Pulled cap off to find snap ring fingers broken off on both sides. I have nothing to grab onto with pliers. Ideas?
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by alnen
Pulled cap off to find snap ring fingers broken off on both sides. I have nothing to grab onto with pliers. Ideas?
Only thing I can think of is a very small cutoff wheel or bit from something like a dremel tool to cut the rest of the snap ring out. Good luck and let us know if you figure out how to get them out.
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 01:50 PM
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Just had a thought. Dangerous, I know...

Or, you could take a small drill bit and drill new holes in the existing ends of the snap ring and try the pliers on that.

Again, Good Luck!
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 02:06 PM
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Screw that... get a pick or 2 and dig it out...
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 02:07 PM
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Thanks for the help. After 2 hours, I was able to get it out with a pick and screwdriver. Now I'm on to the next problem...

I have everything pulled out, I believe. I got to what I believe is the spindle nut. I actually removed a c ring that locks it in place. The ring is a c shape, but actually has a piece that goes into the spindle nut to keep it from spinning.

Here's my question...

The auto caps had 3 bolts holding them on. When I took off the caps, there were 6 bolt holes. I assume I do not need the conversion kit? I already have it, but would like to make this as simple as possible.

It looks like I have room to put in the large retaining ring as is, but not the smaller ring that comes in the kit that goes on the splined center. Do I need to remove more from the wheel assembly, or remove the spindle nut and put in the new one? Thanks!
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 02:50 PM
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I don't understand why the old hub had 3 torx screws, but had holes to accomodate 6, but I may have the solution figured out...

I'm treating this as if it were the 3 hole conversion. This is due to me not having enough space to install the retaining c-ring with the stock spindle nut in place. Another thing that threw me off is that the spindle nut design is different in the conversion kit. It has a 4 prong design, where as the stock spindle nut looks like it will possibly need a round socket with a slot keyed into it.

Hope I'm right about this, bad thing is I still have to work that retaining ring off the other side even if I am right. BTW, I don't have a torque wrench, how tight should I make the spindle nut?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 04:01 PM
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Warn hubs are junk!!
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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why are you doing spindle nuts ??when i did mine took the hub of with 6 screws with warn you have to leave out some pieces for some reason.Then i took off the warn and threw them out .put in blue something
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 06:55 PM
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If you have the 6 bolt cap, you don't need to mess with spindle nuts. My luck ended up with the 3 bolt cap which requires an additional conversion kit consisting of new spindle nuts for $50+...
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 09:31 PM
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Doing an experiment. The side with the conversion kit had the same exact clearance as the stock spindle nut side, so I did one side with and one side without the conversion. Took it for a quick spin, neither side got hot, no weird sounds, 4x4 seems to be engaging. Will let you know more after more thorough testing. BTW, the stock spindle nut size is 2 1/2". I had to buy the socket for $18, and rent the socket for the new spindle nut for $60 (refundable). Hope this helps someone. BTW, I was not able to get the axle retaining ring on either side, not even close. I do have the larger locking ring in place, but but nothing on the actual spindle of the axle.
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