Well I just priced out all the parts to replace the EGR an friends on Rock Auto. I will be $188.

 

I couldn't even get my vacuum line off to take mine completely apart, and I don't have any PB blaster to soak it. However, I feel like that should move too, unless it opens with a vacuum applied?

 

Doubt it's the EGR Valve producing a low flow condition, unless the diaphragm is leaking. Either EGR regulator not allowing sufficient Vac to EGR, or low Vac flow to regulator to begin with.

 

Where does the solenoid get it's vacuum from? Last night while doing the Seafoam treatment, I noticed a cluster of vacuum lines from the intake manifold with the largest going to the brake booster. And several other smaller lines. Is it getting vacuum from this? I can't really follow the lines because they all have wire tubing around them.

Shouldn't the obstruction in the exhaust be moveable to allow exhaust to move into the intake? That is the whole point of an EGR right? That part of the EGR is water tight, and does not move at all. I doubt any amount of vacuum would move it since my fingers couldn't.

 

You should be able to push it open w/ a screw driver fairly easily. Or manually applying Vac to the valve.

 

So the vacuum from the solenoid is responsible for opening the valve pictured above? When I tested the vacuum before it was very weak. And that valve is very hard to move. Perhaps I have a stuck valve and a messed up solenoid?

 

To test it mechanically check to see if vacuum is present at the EGR valve with the electrical connector unplugged from the EVR w/ engine running.

The top port should not have vacuum! Because that would open the EGR at the wrong times. Should see Vac from "source Vac hose" Probably 19+psi if you have a Vac guage.

At Idle, you should have 0 Vac psi to EGR Valve. (don't confuse air palpitation w/ actual Vac psi at Vac hose to EGR)

With everything connected and the engine running ground out the pin 33 side. The EGR vavle should open and the engine RPM should change. (stick a wire into the back of pin 33 connector & ground the other end of wire/ to engine should do fine)

Or jumper across the 12V connector & then ground pin 33 w/ engine running.



Egr valve is supposed to function when ECU decides secondary air is needed to offset increased load, usually around 2500-3000 RPM if parked at the time.

 

The other night I played around with the truck. I did the following.

I popped off the EGR and jammed a screw driver into that valve. Sure enough it did move up and down. Then I reinstalled.

Next I got some vacuum hose and plugged one end into a spare intake manifold nipple, and the other into the nipple of the EGR. Sure enough when I started the truck the diaphragm worked just fine.

Next I pulled off the IAT or what ever it is called. I cleaned that with carb cleaner, and it seemed fine. The plunger was not quiet sealed, but that could just be since it was unplugged. Once I let it sit with cleaner in it, it seem to seal better.

I haven't gotten a chance to test the solenoid. I will do that some time this weekend.

 

So unplug the solenoid wire, start engine, and test for vacuum at the EGR?
Just making sure that "EVR" isn't a typo.

Then to test everything, ground the 33 pin to chassis? Does grounding 33 make the solinoid open exposing the EGR to vacuum?

I don't understand this line, or why I need to try this:
Thanks Ymenski! You're the !

 

Your welcome. (assuming is a good thing)