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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #1  
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Default rear main

how is it to replace to rear main seal? i have a oil leak and i cant tell if it is coming from there or the oil pan. does a guy have to pull the motor or can it be done with it in.

thanks
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:14 PM
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If I'm not mistaken the motor mounts have to be undone and the motor tilted to drop the pan. I need an oil pan gasket myself. And the way I see it: it's such a hassle to get the pan down there's no sense in not replacing the rear main seal and the oil pump while you're in there.
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 12:57 AM
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its easier to pull the trans than the motor to replace the rear main seal.
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew95
its easier to pull the trans than the motor to replace the rear main seal.
If you remove the transmission is it possible to slide the oil pan back or does the motor have to be tilted? Reason I ask is I need to replace the oil pan gasket and clutch so if I can I'd like to knock them both out at once.
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 06:35 PM
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Also, it could be a valve cover leak. They leak to the same place and often look like the other. I would definitely check those before you do the rear main.
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 10:54 PM
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i wouldnt loosen the engine mounts with the trans removed! there's nothing else holding the engine in place. but if you have a cherry picker, lift that baby up an you can remove the whole pan.
i replaced my oil pan gasket without removing anything. i did unbolt the mounts, jacked the engine up about an 1" and inserted some wood blocks i cut, for a little extra room. it still tight, especially with 4wd.
replace the rear main seal when you do the clutch, no matter if its leaking or not. its only $5 after all.
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew95
i wouldnt loosen the engine mounts with the trans removed! there's nothing else holding the engine in place. but if you have a cherry picker, lift that baby up an you can remove the whole pan.
i replaced my oil pan gasket without removing anything. i did unbolt the mounts, jacked the engine up about an 1" and inserted some wood blocks i cut, for a little extra room. it still tight, especially with 4wd.
replace the rear main seal when you do the clutch, no matter if its leaking or not. its only $5 after all.
I didn't mean undo the motor mounts with the tranny out lol I just wondered if there was room to slide the pan back with it out of there, motor mounts still tight.

And thanks that's a good idea. I planned on replacing the oil pump too because its 40 bucks and it'll go eventually. I rather not fight to get back to it again in 20k miles. And I figure ill replace the slave cylinder with the clutch for the same reason.
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 11:54 PM
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I'm going to say no because the pan still has to drop. The motor mounts are super easy to undo. It's one bolt either side. I don't recommend undoing the bolts attached to block as they are very cun ty to get them back in sometimes
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by BrendenMarquis
I'm going to say no because the pan still has to drop. The motor mounts are super easy to undo. It's one bolt either side. I don't recommend undoing the bolts attached to block as they are very cun ty to get them back in sometimes
Thanks, I just wasn't sure. That'd be too easy anyway. I shouldn't have any problems with it. I appreciate the input.
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 07:20 PM
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Here's the part number for the rear main seal: E6TZ6701A

(It's a split lip style seal)

Procedure:


Disconnect battery ground cable and drain cooling system.

Remove air cleaner, then disconnect throttle and transmission linkages at the throttle body.

Disconnect power brake vacuum line, if equipped.

Disconnect fuel line at the fuel rail and air tubes at the throttle body, then remove air cleaner adapter from throttle body.

Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses and transmission oil cooler lines (if equipped) from radiator.

Remove fan shroud, fan and radiator.

On models equipped with power steering, unfasten steering pump and position aside.

On all models, remove front engine mount through bolts, then the engine oil dipstick tube.

On models equipped with A/C, move refrigerant lines from rear of compressor downward to clear dash, or remove lines if necessary.

On all models, raise and support vehicle.

Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.

Remove muffler inlet pipe assembly, then disconnect manual and kickdown linkages from transmission.

Remove driveshaft and coupling shaft assembly, then the transmission dipstick tube.

Remove dipstick and tube from oil pan, then position a suitable jack and a wooden block under oil pan. Raise engine slightly until transmission contacts floor, then block engine in place at the mounts.
NOTE: The engine assembly must be raised exactly four inches and remain centered in the engine compartment to remove the oil pan.

Remove oil pan attaching bolts and lower the pan.

Remove oil pump and pickup tube assembly and lay in oil pan, then slide oil pan rearward and remove from vehicle.

Loosen all the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts, thereby lowering the crankshaft slightly but not to exceed 0.7938 mm (1/32 inch) .

CAUTION: Use care to prevent scratching or damaging the crankshaft sealing surfaces.

Remove the rear crankshaft main bearing cap, and remove the crankshaft rear oil seal from the rear crankshaft main bearing cap and cylinder block. On the cylinder block half of the crankshaft rear oil seal use a seal removal tool, or install a small metal screw in one end of the crankshaft rear oil seal, and PULL on the screw to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal.
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