I was wondering what it would do for my truck if i replaced the ignition coil, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and distributor cap? that whole setup there looks to be kinda old in my truck. I pulled off a wire from the distributor and the metal piece at the 90 degree elbow is rusted a little bit, and so is the metal piece it attaches to. they look bad, and i get a light display at night time to change them. but the timing bump from the Bronco Forum doesnt make any sense to me.??? Not only am i doing it because it needs it, but i just did the plugs and wires for a friend, and his truck got a lot of power from it, so i was thinking, if mine were as bad as his, i might gain a little of throttle response?

 

Sure could.

 

Spend the extra money for a good set of wires. Even the "good" wires at the parts stores give me a light show under the hood.

 

I just got my truck a couple months ago, took it straight to smog check like an idiot and failed. Went to the parts store, replaced everything you mentioned and passed with flying colors and have much more power! A little better mileage to. Its worth the extra cash to by better quality parts too.

 

so get like, platinum plugs, and the most expensive wires? lol but seriously, expensive stuff pretty much? and the ignition coil, can i get an explanation of what this is, and what it does, and maybe the location? i was thinking it was the piece the one of the wires go to off the distributor, am i right? and if so, what does it do?

also, how hard is it to replace these plugs, wires and distributor? especially the distributor, never changed one of those.

 

the ignition coil its the one that give the electric power to the spark plugs to make the spark. on my 93 f150 it located it on top of the drive side valve cover.just follow the center wire from distributor cap. Spark plugs are no to hard to replace if u have a V8 . driverside its easy lots of room , but passanger side little more work but still easy, about the distribtor u mean distributor cap?.

 

yeah, was thinking about replacing the whole thing, because the "prongs" that stick out of the top where you connect the wires looks bad.

 

I thought maybe that was just me! You know, 60's flashback? Here's the most bulletproof wires I know of: MSD Superconductors. Last forever, don't leak. Maybe an overkill for a stock coil but you need at least a 40k volt coil anyway(48 would be better, 60K would be best) w/ brass cap & rotor. Bark w/ the Big Dawgs, or....................?http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/fla...0000_volt.aspx (.45 Ohm) I push Motorcraft stock copper cores for safety when it comes to stretching & specifically an aggressive base time advance, because I don't want to hear "THAt MeAn OL' x2 pLaT......PUt A hOLe iN My PIsTon!! WA-WA-WA!!! Ya, you can run X2 Plats. Good luck w/that. In fact almost all of you won't have a problem. "Almost all!" dr_bowtie has no problem running a stretched X2 Plat at 16 BTDC. Here lies the rub! He has a dr_Bowtie engine & can hear a PING w/ earmuffs on, in the middle of a hailstorm. What's under your hood? MAF or MAP ?, Cylinder compression #'s dry &wet ? Compression ratio ? Fuel pressure PSI ? Vac system PSI ? Engine displacement? And how's your hearing? So you change your plugs more often, big deal, $1. a piece. By the way, when was the last time you even looked at one of your plugs? Running Rich? Lean? Last time you ran Error Code scans? I personally prefer to err on the side of safety, When I'm doing 80 mph for 700 miles non-stop, w/ a 1400 lb payload, even though the sound of the engine's in the back of my mind, I like crankin the tunes instead if listening for a Ping to rear it's ugly head! Of course, this is only 1 reporters opinion, and does not necessarily represent the views of management...........or, their sponsors! What does a bus pass go for nowadays? Last time I bought one, I think it was $5./mo. when the fare was 25 cents/ride!

 

Do yourself a favor and replace one item at a time. That's what i did over the summer and it definitely helps, new cap, rotor, plugs, wires. If you pull all the stuff off and go to replace it, good luck and getting it right without a diagram. I'd do the plugs first, then change the cap and rotor removing and hooking up one wire at a time, and then do the wires last one at a time. From what Ymeski's been preaching, you'd better go with Copper plugs if your going to play with the timing. I'm going to sidegap my plugs soon and get a new coil. I'm toying with the idea of going to the DYNO ($75/30min) before and after to see what the rear wheel difference is and also doing a mileage comparison. I'll let you guys know if I do. I really want to but then I think, **** I'm not even spending $150 on the parts.

But I REALLLY WANT TO KNOW! It would be nice to establish a baseline too for future mods if I wanted to do them, like headers, exhaust. I'd like to see what if any increase a Flowmaster or something similar would do. I'm guessing like 3 HP, and not the 20-30 advertised.

 

i put a set of taylor cables on my and those e3 plugs, spent a pretty penny on those and not sure if really even added anything