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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #51  
BigGreyBox's Avatar
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From: Jacksonville, FL
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If the screw hasn't already been adjusted before, I would leave it alone. I've never messed with mine, so my idle was already set to the factory setting.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 01:00 PM
  #52  
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From: Middleburg, FL
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I have a similar problem and I'm debating whether its the coolant tempature sensor. And how do I seafoam my vacum lines? Do i just hook up a line to the tree on the manifold and let it suck up the seafoam from the can? I've never done it before...
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 07:32 PM
  #53  
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I used the vaccum line from the brake booster. It worked really well I think! Going to go for another round this weekend just to make sure.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 12:19 AM
  #54  
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David Harley
 
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I also thought about the coolant tempature sensor because of possibly running in open loop but never changed mine. If you happen to get to it before me...Post your results.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #55  
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I changed mine last year. At the time I didn't have this problem though. However the cts will throw a cel if it is bad.
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 01:10 PM
  #56  
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Just replaced my CTS and my CEL is still on, and all I can do is wait til I get my code reader in the mail this week or next week...
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #57  
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From: MD
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any luck yet?
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 05:58 PM
  #58  
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Im having same problems and thinking temp sensor and ACT sensor.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 06:04 PM
  #59  
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From: Long Beach Calimexifornia
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Originally Posted by tailgatefisher
Wow. No one here has even a clue of what the cause could be.

I was told today that my thermostat is opening to early for the engine to be at the normal operating temp. May have a incorrect thermostat and to purchase one with higher temp setting. When my engine is completely warmed up, the guage needle doesnt even reach the N in Normal. While driving it falls back down to to just about the first line of the guage. He said that the computer thinks that the engine is still cold and may be adjusting the air/fuel mixture to acommidate for it. Causing my truck to run lean, which it seems to do. And cause the misfire.

Is this possible?
Nope. You run overrich before normal op temp is reached. Closer to 13:1 cold, as opposed to 14.7:1 afterwards.
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 08:44 AM
  #60  
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Well last night I Removed my ACT sensor and it was a great big ball of sludge at the end of it completely covering the sensor. I cleaned it and tested it using a volt meter and a light bulb to watch the volts drop as I apply heat. 2.8vdc @ 70 degrees F. Also cleaned temperature sensor and checked. About the same readings. Also I checked the timing and it was 10* BTDC. I reset codes and prayed for the best. WOW my truck started like crap until it warmed back up and the computer could relearn and now I am back to running condition like it was at least. Not perfect but drivable. Im not running my EGR vacuum and air pump and still getting hesitation from the line like before this happend but at least its not surging and missing while idling anymore so what I did I believe helped a lot. Not sure why it still hesitates at first but that might be because of no egr or air pump. One day I will be able to punch it I hope and have it run like a mustang lol I hope lol... For now shes slow off the line but power is back for the most part and I can drive it again same as before.
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