Oily engine block
Thread Starter
Constant Parts Buyer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Oily engine block
I've got the 4.9l 300 and there's a bunch of oil buildup on the top near the oil cap and down the sides near the spark plugs, it's been there but it always looks moist, is this a bad head gasket? And if it is do I need to get this taken care of as soon as possible?
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 249
From: Iowa
Are you losing oil? (having to add some between changes)
Mine was the same way when I bought the truck, cleaned it up with LA's Totally Awesone ($3 for 1/2gallon concentrate at dollar general-best stuff I've come across-thanks to unit505) and it never produced any more oil even though it always looked "fresh". I think it always had that look because the engine heats up and cools down which causes condensation, which in turn makes dirty/oily stains appear new. My suggestion is to clean it first then if it comes back investigate further.
If it comes back:
Block test will tell you for sure if you have a head gasket leak or not, available at most auto parts store as a loaner tool, though you do have to buy the chemical that it uses (<$10).
Pull your engine vac, 17-22hg steady is what you want and a drop then immediate return when you blip the throttle. Any thing else and you have problems.
Compression test to ensure it's not being pushed out.
Like I said, though, just start with cleaning it up really good then time will tell. I use the LA T Awesome 1:1 with water on a warm (not hot engine), let it sit for a couple minutes then use a brush or rag to clean the area, hose off. It works just as good as GUNK engine degreaser and one 1/2g concentrate will clean 10+ engines for $3 instead of one engine for $4.
Mine was the same way when I bought the truck, cleaned it up with LA's Totally Awesone ($3 for 1/2gallon concentrate at dollar general-best stuff I've come across-thanks to unit505) and it never produced any more oil even though it always looked "fresh". I think it always had that look because the engine heats up and cools down which causes condensation, which in turn makes dirty/oily stains appear new. My suggestion is to clean it first then if it comes back investigate further.
If it comes back:
Block test will tell you for sure if you have a head gasket leak or not, available at most auto parts store as a loaner tool, though you do have to buy the chemical that it uses (<$10).
Pull your engine vac, 17-22hg steady is what you want and a drop then immediate return when you blip the throttle. Any thing else and you have problems.
Compression test to ensure it's not being pushed out.
Like I said, though, just start with cleaning it up really good then time will tell. I use the LA T Awesome 1:1 with water on a warm (not hot engine), let it sit for a couple minutes then use a brush or rag to clean the area, hose off. It works just as good as GUNK engine degreaser and one 1/2g concentrate will clean 10+ engines for $3 instead of one engine for $4.
Thread Starter
Constant Parts Buyer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Are you losing oil? (having to add some between changes)
Mine was the same way when I bought the truck, cleaned it up with LA's Totally Awesone ($3 for 1/2gallon concentrate at dollar general-best stuff I've come across-thanks to unit505) and it never produced any more oil even though it always looked "fresh". I think it always had that look because the engine heats up and cools down which causes condensation, which in turn makes dirty/oily stains appear new. My suggestion is to clean it first then if it comes back investigate further.
If it comes back:
Block test will tell you for sure if you have a head gasket leak or not, available at most auto parts store as a loaner tool, though you do have to buy the chemical that it uses (<$10).
Pull your engine vac, 17-22hg steady is what you want and a drop then immediate return when you blip the throttle. Any thing else and you have problems.
Compression test to ensure it's not being pushed out.
Like I said, though, just start with cleaning it up really good then time will tell. I use the LA T Awesome 1:1 with water on a warm (not hot engine), let it sit for a couple minutes then use a brush or rag to clean the area, hose off. It works just as good as GUNK engine degreaser and one 1/2g concentrate will clean 10+ engines for $3 instead of one engine for $4.
Mine was the same way when I bought the truck, cleaned it up with LA's Totally Awesone ($3 for 1/2gallon concentrate at dollar general-best stuff I've come across-thanks to unit505) and it never produced any more oil even though it always looked "fresh". I think it always had that look because the engine heats up and cools down which causes condensation, which in turn makes dirty/oily stains appear new. My suggestion is to clean it first then if it comes back investigate further.
If it comes back:
Block test will tell you for sure if you have a head gasket leak or not, available at most auto parts store as a loaner tool, though you do have to buy the chemical that it uses (<$10).
Pull your engine vac, 17-22hg steady is what you want and a drop then immediate return when you blip the throttle. Any thing else and you have problems.
Compression test to ensure it's not being pushed out.
Like I said, though, just start with cleaning it up really good then time will tell. I use the LA T Awesome 1:1 with water on a warm (not hot engine), let it sit for a couple minutes then use a brush or rag to clean the area, hose off. It works just as good as GUNK engine degreaser and one 1/2g concentrate will clean 10+ engines for $3 instead of one engine for $4.
Thread Starter
Constant Parts Buyer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
I'm also not sure if I'm losing oil, I just changed it this past weekend so it hasn't really been long enough to check.
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 249
From: Iowa
I don't cover anything when I do mine, just don't spray battery, ignition coil, dist cap, fuse/relay boxes with direct water and you will be fine, rinsing them quickly is ok just don't hit them with pressure for any period of time.
My method:
Spray everything with garden hose on mist, then spray everything you want to clean with cleaner. Using a brush hit the cleanest spots first, this allows the dirtier stuff to soak, then get them. Hose it off with shower setting on nozzle (harder than a mist but not really pressurized). Go back and hit anything that didn't come clean and rinse again.
These engines are shaped so water won't pool in unwanted spots, except for where the fuel rail is but that can be soaked up, blown off or just boiled away. I've had a few vehicle that you had to be really careful about what/where you sprayed but haven't had a problem with this truck, my caddy and firebird I got to be careful.
Just be sure to do it to a warm block, not hot, just idle for a couple of minutes. Then let it idle while you are picking up your supplies and take it for a 10-20 minute drive to get all of the moisture out.
I never recommend using a pressure washer any where near the engine bay because you will do major damage.
Some things you do need to be careful of are the plastic vac lines, they like to crack when touched, or even just when you look at them cross-eyed.
My method:
Spray everything with garden hose on mist, then spray everything you want to clean with cleaner. Using a brush hit the cleanest spots first, this allows the dirtier stuff to soak, then get them. Hose it off with shower setting on nozzle (harder than a mist but not really pressurized). Go back and hit anything that didn't come clean and rinse again.
These engines are shaped so water won't pool in unwanted spots, except for where the fuel rail is but that can be soaked up, blown off or just boiled away. I've had a few vehicle that you had to be really careful about what/where you sprayed but haven't had a problem with this truck, my caddy and firebird I got to be careful.
Just be sure to do it to a warm block, not hot, just idle for a couple of minutes. Then let it idle while you are picking up your supplies and take it for a 10-20 minute drive to get all of the moisture out.
I never recommend using a pressure washer any where near the engine bay because you will do major damage.
Some things you do need to be careful of are the plastic vac lines, they like to crack when touched, or even just when you look at them cross-eyed.
Gaskets probably. If it's not dripping on everybody's driveways, don't worry about it much. Cleaning it off would be a good idea. Also help you to see where it's coming from.
If it's just seeping a bit, no sense getting carried away changing the gaskets unless your ocd kicks in.
Sometimes just snugging the bolts a little (rocker covers, oil pan, and side (lifter) covers. Gaskets can shrink, so sometimes that can help. Notice I said "snug" them. Don't get carried away reefing on them.
If it's just seeping a bit, no sense getting carried away changing the gaskets unless your ocd kicks in.
Sometimes just snugging the bolts a little (rocker covers, oil pan, and side (lifter) covers. Gaskets can shrink, so sometimes that can help. Notice I said "snug" them. Don't get carried away reefing on them.