obd2 memory saver?
Changed the radio, forgot and just failed inspection because some things in the computer were not ready. Then found that there are things called ecm memory savers. Seems simple enough but am looking for second opinions. Absolutely safe for electrical system, for ecm (or pcm), brand used? Thank you.
Thanks for the reply. After a few more videos, now I'm not sure. Every video is about battery changes and not about doing works that need the battery disconnected, where every advice starts with "disconnect the battery". One video says positive terminal stays powered with the memory saver, so I am assuming the memory saver may electrify everything in the car. I will have to do more asking before I can use it, I think, or find something that powers the memory only.
A 96 is allowed two not readies and can be tested, it will start with five so it's not that hard of a system to drive and get ready to test. Beside that, something simple is not made that keeps the memory of the ECM when disconnecting the battery.
Thanks for the reply. It's just having to drive 50 miles for the memory to relearn and pass inspections. Now also it's giving iac code when no such thing before the relearn-drive. I wish now i changed the radio without disconnecting the battery although iac code is probably a coincidence. Battery had to be disconnected because I had to reconnect factory replacement harness. I was dumb. I cut the factory harness off because I didn't like the harness.
Also, found an article saying these memory savers are not safe. Maybe for battery changes but it does look like car must be handled like battery was connected. BTW, kudos to linchpin (youtube) for mentioning this.

Also, found an article saying these memory savers are not safe. Maybe for battery changes but it does look like car must be handled like battery was connected. BTW, kudos to linchpin (youtube) for mentioning this.
Last edited by carpdad; Jul 11, 2020 at 01:36 PM.
A memory saver is usually a common 9V battery. Yes, it will send 9V back through some of the wiring, but it can't "electrify" the whole truck. If it could, you wouldn't need that 80-lb box of Lead behind the passenger headlight. It's no more dangerous than shorting (or licking) the 9V battery terminals. If you're worried, wire the memory saver into whatever fuse's wire feeds the KAPWR (Keep-Alive PoWeR) circuit on your truck, and pull the fuse. That will limit the memory saver to the circuits served by that fuse.
But it's not necessary, anyway. The EEC has an internal memory saver that will last a few minutes with the battery disconnected.
And no, disconnecting the battery & performing a drive cycle didn't cause any fault codes. It was coincidental. This caption explains how to complete a Ford drive cycle:
(phone app link)
But it's not necessary, anyway. The EEC has an internal memory saver that will last a few minutes with the battery disconnected.
And no, disconnecting the battery & performing a drive cycle didn't cause any fault codes. It was coincidental. This caption explains how to complete a Ford drive cycle:
(phone app link)
Thank you very much for the reply! I really needed that relearn drive reminder. I'll copy and save the info. I think I read it some years ago but forgot.
Problem with me, just forget things. Not medical. Also for that 9v saver. Not sure if 9v saver is still made. All the obd2 savers had clamps or cigarette lighter plug for using another battery.
Problem with me, just forget things. Not medical. Also for that 9v saver. Not sure if 9v saver is still made. All the obd2 savers had clamps or cigarette lighter plug for using another battery.
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This is about 3x more expensive than it needs to be, but it won't specifically power the KAPWR circuit.
This is a more-reasonable price, but you have to know where to put each wire & keep them attached.
This is reasonably-priced, & slightly easier to connect (especially if you pull the KAPWR fuse & clip onto the "dead" side terminal).
In each case, the red wire goes to the KAPWR circuit, and black goes to ground.
This is a more-reasonable price, but you have to know where to put each wire & keep them attached.
This is reasonably-priced, & slightly easier to connect (especially if you pull the KAPWR fuse & clip onto the "dead" side terminal).
In each case, the red wire goes to the KAPWR circuit, and black goes to ground.


