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No start on 1992 F150 Flareside 5.8l

Old 10-22-2018, 06:48 PM
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Unhappy No start on 1992 F150 Flareside 5.8l

Hi everyone. I'm new here, so be gentle with me. ***grin***
First, I inherited my dad's old F150 a couple of years ago, and it ran fair, with just some hesitation when cruising around town. Then it got to acting up and wouldn't turn over from time to time. Usually a jump start would fix the situation. During this time I would get a burning smell when trying to start it. Then one time I noticed that the insulation had burned completely off of the ground strap that went from the engine to the frame! I replaced the strap with a heavy universal battery cable from O'Reilly's. That seemed to cure the problem of not turning over.
Then about a month later, it just refused to start. It would crank fine, but wouldn't start. About this same time, my heart started going south on me, and it became very difficult to work on it, or even think about working on it. During that time I did check for spark, check that both the front and rear fuel pumps were running when switched back and forth between tanks, replace the fuel filter, and make sure the battery was ok. I would have taken it to a mechanic at that point, but my medical bills are drowning me, plus I'm to damn stubborn to admit I can't fix it myself. LOL
Flash forward a year or so.... I had a heart transplant 4 months ago and am feeling fantastic, and now that my brain is getting oxygen again. can think clearly again.
So, I've started tinkering with the pickup again, and so far I've taken the air cleaner hoses off of the throttle body and sprayed carb cleaner down its throat while my wife cranked it for me. No difference at all, so I assumed its not a fuel problem.
Then I replaced the main computer, with no difference, and the same result with a new Ignition Module (btw my old module has no pins on the side, and the new module has 3 pins, but all the google searches I do on the part number: E7DF 12A297 A1A it shows the one with the 3 pins.... do I just cut those pins off?)

So, here I am with no idea of where to go from here. Can anyone help?
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:40 AM
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Stop swapping parts. If you have the original EEC, put it back in. Never change a part unless it fails a published test. When you replace one, the replacement should pass the same test that the original failed. Return the ICM - it's for pre-'92 trucks. Yours takes the gray push-start module described here:

(phone app link)

If that's what it has, leave it alone. If you suspect any ignition system problem, follow the diagnostic procedure in Haynes Ch.5 (usually Sec.5 or 7, depending on edition):

(phone app link)

Remove all the battery cables' terminals, and clean them as these captions describe:

(phone app link)

(phone app link)

That includes their mating surfaces on the block & frame:

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While you're doing that work, put a trickle charger on the battery. I recommend either the Battery Tender, or BT Junior.

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