Lol, YM56. No, I didn't leave it that way. Problem fixed, code cleared, but still bogging. Stock gap is .044 for my truck and I will pick up a larger coil for this tune-up. Can't find Ford 9mm Racing wires locally, but can get Motorcraft 8.5mm. Better off to order online and get the custom set I've seen in other threads? Any suggestions/recommendations? Mechanic pulled a no-show, so fuel issue unresolved. Hopefully today!

 

MSD 8.5 Superconductor Wires are the best wires & last the longest. Coil should be at least 48K & lowest Ohm rating available. After the coil upgrade w/ brass cap & rotor, you can do .054 easy for gap. Motorcraft Nic plate Coppercores. They require less Ohm resistance to be overcome in order to fire, than their Platinum counterparts. Then there's base time advance to mod, but deal w/ Fuel issue first before you do anything else. These is all performance upgrades & right now your engine isn't up to them at the moment.

 

Agreed. Fuel issue first, then exhaust from cat back. Picked up Moto 8.5 wires....guy said they had been there forever. Thanks for the info, YM56.

 

Fuel issue resolved. Rear tank was leaking from pump o-ring. Fixed. 10mpg never felt so good!!!

Did the Seafoam yesterday: Definitely smoked up the neighborhood, but very little improvement in performance. With the running condition as it is, this result didn't surprise me.

As for the exhaust: Rear cat was removed b4 I got the truck and initial estimates were $250-$400 to replace from cherry bombs back??? WTF? I think it's shot, but ASSUMING cat isn't plugged I'm hoping I can just put new bombs or flowmaster, end it there for now and move on to tune up. (How do you check if cat is plugged? Exhaust still pulses. Exhaust guy tapped on it and said it "seems fine"??) Getting 2nd estimate today.

Picking up 48k coil, plugs, brass cap and rotor today. Moto 8.5 wires in hand. Want to resolve exhaust issue b4 tune up, but that will be hard if I have parts in hand. My question is: I can't find anyone with a timing light and honestly have never used one and don't know how. That being said, I've gotta ask a stupid question: Can I just advance timing until detonation and back it off or is the timing light essential? Would like to do the bump to 13 and gap to .54 to see if I can improve MPG, but I'd like to do it right.

 

Bit the bullet and had the exhaust done. Kept the duals, but put two mufflers and tips. HUGE improvement in pick up and response. Also re-routed wires as per diagram and installed new looms. 85% back to normal. Also, 11.4 MPG town miles only last two tankfuls. Not bad for this truck.

Clock spring this afternoon. Don't notice in the winter, but miss CC now. Also, you'd be surprised how handy a horn is until you're without!

Y56, I'm still planning the timing bump you suggested. Have MSD 8.5 wires, brass cap. Can't find Moto coppercores locally or a brass rotor. Autolites everywhere and that's what I usually run. Most places only have one 48K coil and they have no clue how many Ohms, so I haven't purchased coil yet. Is there any place online you/or anyone recommend to get these items in a kit?

Thanks again.

 

I wouldn't, and I can adjust my timing in about 2 mins. w/ a light. Being the first time, especially not knowing what your engine is going to tolerate, you're going to be advancing 1-2 degree at a time at the most, until you observe ping under load. then you are going to retard 2 degrees once you do ping. Nic plated Copper Cores are much more forgiving regarding potential piston damage, but why push it? On the timing light, you have 3 wire leeds. One goes to the POS, one to the NEG on the battery. These power the light. The last one Clamps around the #1 cylinder's plug wire. This triggers the light pulse. You aim it at the timing ring mark w/ the Spout connector removed. If you can't find one to borrow or rent, you can buy one for about $40. The first time, I didn't have one & didn't trust my ear to hear a subtle ping. I went to my favorite shop & payed my mechanic 25 bucks to do it, and watched him. I had Double Platinums in it at the time & we ended up at 14 BTDC. I ran that for a week, to make sure it was ok under all driving situations regarding ping. Then I bought my own light, switched to the Nic plated Copper cores & further advanced to 16, then 18BTDC. At 18BTDC, very occasionally I got a ping, so I settled on 16BTDC. I can (and have) run that at 80mph for 700+ miles w/o stopping w/ no problems.(with A/C on & a motorcycle strapped to the bed) Avoid jumping octanes. It will eventually come back to bite you in the ***! I must confess I do run 89 octane on the 700 mile Oregon runs, but under normal conditions, stick w/ 87 Presoak the distributor adjust bolt w/ a penetrant. They haven't had much action over the years. I've never got ping while advancing at idle. Under acceleration &/or load is what brings it out. I remember also after pulling a hill, coming down the back side too.

 

I think it's in the link. See post #12 in the link. Ohm=.35-.45 coil. Motorcraft Nic plated are copper core. Tell em you want the cheap b@stards!

 

Great info on responses, as usual.
Moto plugs are a dealer only. I'll pick them up tomorrow.
If I understood you correctly, I can do the parts install with the .55 gap in my garage and, assuming I can't find a timing light and teacher to be there, bring it to a "friendly mechanic" and have it timed and advanced?
Have been spray'n the adjustment bolt occasionally since first reading your post awhile back. Anxious to try this.

 

Picked up Moto plugs yesterday. Picking up coil after lunch. Still no luck finding timing light/someone to help.
Can I install the parts and gap to .054 in my garage, then drive to a "friendly mechanic" and have it timed and do the bump there?

 

Yep. Set up a time w/ em first so your not sitting around waiting & he's not rushed. Most engines can get 14 BTDC w/o an argument, I'd run that for a while & make sure you have no ping under any driving situations, before progressing to 16 BTDC. You'll run into mechanics w/ limited experience w/ your generation of engine, that will say it must be 10 BTDC, & may not even know about having to remove the SPOUT plug while adjusting. When Ford went to coil packs, eliminating the distributor, this "manual" mod was no longer an option. Unless they know what your talking about & say "no problem", go somewhere else. There's an old saying. "Never try to teach a pig to sing. You'll waste your time, & annoy the pig!" dr_bowtie has a similar signature quote. Anyway, make sure you have no hint of a miss before going. Be careful, 48K coils will more than b!tch slap you. It will be painful!
Note: Personally, I desludged my engine oil w/ Seafoam & switched to synthetic first. Also, flushed coolant system & went to distilled water & antifreeze. If your running a hair warm, I went to a 180F thermostat, but you can add a bottle of "Water Wetter" to your coolant system in the mean time. that will take you down about 12F And stabilizes your temp. No active error codes or Vac leaks! 16 BTDC is the sweet spot, but 14 BTDC is a respectable place to start.