You didn't say if Spout E/C was koeo, continuous or koer! Don't forget to clean the mount portways for the EGR on the air intake & the EGR regulator is not part of the EGR Valve!

 

EGR carbon cleaning has become a spring thing, FSGuy. Plugged tube every spring, but mount portways have always been clean? Spout was KOER, and I will check the EGR regulator YM56. Has never popped up on the KOEO and have done that dozens of times since I've owned the truck.
BTW YM56, glad to see you here too, your responses are always promt and good info.

That being said, today I will install EGR, TPS and possibly the clockspring, as well as, hack off old exhaust from the cherry bombs back. Solid from that weld forward and exhaust still pulsates, so cat shouldn't be plugged. I've often wondered what effect cracks/leaks rear of the bombs would have on low-end performance/EGR issues.

Tomorrow's plan is to address the fuel issue(leak from rear tank after a new side tank install and why, when running on rear tank, fuel is being taken from side tank. Also, fuel leaks from rear tank even when almost empty and I'm running on side tank. Sorry to add to this post, thought I had this in here, but see that was in another Ford forum.

Ranger, even though I did it last year, next week will do another tune-up, the RIGHT way. Motorcraft cheapie plugs, FMS wires, cap and rotor and this time I WILL check the timing, with vacuum and timing light. Thinking about doing the timing bump with the .55 gap, as many others have posted. Sounded interesting, but am apprehensive as I live in Northern Minnesota? Most posters that favored this lived in the Southern part of the country. Might even do a Seafoam treatment?

Thanks to all who responded! Helps to bounce things off people who know. BTW: anyone know what happened to Steve83?

 

Sooting is common w/ stock engines that are running higher than 87 octane, ethanol blends, pooched ECT sensors & failing F/P regulators, plugs gapped too close or too wide, and o2 sensors that have out lived their usefulness. I change mine at 35K. After 60K, you're really shooting yourself in the foot as far as performance & your wallet, as far as MPG's! At least douche it w/ Electronic contact or MAF cleaner! Hope the cap &rotor are brass. Seafoam the Combustion chambers first & at least kick your timing up to 13BTDC. What is stock plug gap for your engine? I didn't know Steve 83 frequented this Forum! But now that you mention it, I haven't seen him at his regular Forum haunt for a few days! Hope he's ok! He would be truly missed!!! Maybe he just got a life! These things happen, even in the best of families! What voltage coil? Base time bumped engines prefer the heavier density of cooler intake air temps by the way! You should douche the EGR w/ carb or Deep creep.

 

When the EGR regulator fails (or begins to fail), the codes are for EGR valve closed or insufficient or excessive flow or not closeing. EGR reg. function is indirectly reported by the EVP senor, and would show during the KOER as an active error code, unless it is a continuous memory error code also.

 

Your fuel problem is very common for our dual tank setups. I know if you do a little searching you'll find exactly what your looking for to fix it. If I remember right the tank thats getting filled by the one thats not in use is the one that needs a new sending unit/pump. So in your case this would be the rear tank need some work since its pulling from the front.

As far as plug gap and timing. I live in ND and have done the .55 gap with no issues at all. Just make sure your ignition is still up to par, which I'm sure it is. The coil should be a higher output coil for the larger gap. As for timing most people get 13 degree's out of theirs and some have even gone up as high as 16. I could only get 12.5 out of mine with 87 octane before I had detonation, but I also have larger tires and a lift which effect things a bit.

 

Seafoam your combustion chambers & do a fuel pressure check
w/ bleed down time. error code scans too. That's if you want more advance. 16BTDC seems to be the sweet spot, but anything above stock base timing is an improvement! But you should stick w/ 87 octane.

 

You know its funny I did sea foam once but after doing the top end clean I didn't have any smoke come out of the exhaust at all. I guess I thought it was weird but I know I did everything right. Any thought as to why this would be?

I've also suspected our winter gas may have something to do with me only being able to pull 12.5°. I'll have to do some tinkering with it now that its warming up a bit.

 

Not so much while running it, but combustion chamber deposits from a steady diet. Also can gum the injectors producing poor atomization & poor closure. Which is why I said do a F/P test w/pressure bleed down time check. Poor injector performance can cause ping by itself!

 

Finished installing EGR, TPS and cleaned TB (pretty clean to start with) and IAC. TPS code and Spout Open code cleared. Just my old buddy 332 popped. Found where EGR tube going into muffler past cat MAY have been welded shut. It had rusted off and I had a buddy tack it back in place. Should have had him weld a bolt into pipe and attached it there. I'm almost certain that's my 332 code?

Will be working on the fuel issue today.

 

So the tube is closed off & your leaving it that way? Well, GLWT!