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From: Where the AF tells me to (pm if you really must know)
New to the site
Hey guys, I'm new so I thought I'd say HI 
I'm using my same username that I'm registered with over at nastyz28.com for simplicity.
I was in the market for a cheap "beater" truck. My neighbor was selling his F150 for cheap, and since I have fond memories of my dad having an '89 that lasted longer than it should've, so I bought it.
It's a 91 F150, 5.8, 4x4 (manual hubs), auto, supercab, longbed with 32x12.50 tires. It has 133,XXX miles on it, and runs pretty good. KBB says it's worth $3800ish in fair condition, I paid $2,000. The rust on the passenger side has been media blasted and coated with a rust preventer.
Known problems:
#1 - need to replace the wheelbearings. Quick question: when I'm in 2wd, it hums from the RF once I get around 30mph. When I'm in 4wd, there is a clunking sound that sounds like it's coming from the RF also. Would that be because of the bad wheel bearings also?
#2 - need to replace the EGR valve (when I get around to it). It's currently unplugged.
The stain in my driveway is from what's parked in my garage....
Here's some pics, tell me what you think (click to enlarge).
I'm using my same username that I'm registered with over at nastyz28.com for simplicity.
I was in the market for a cheap "beater" truck. My neighbor was selling his F150 for cheap, and since I have fond memories of my dad having an '89 that lasted longer than it should've, so I bought it.
It's a 91 F150, 5.8, 4x4 (manual hubs
), auto, supercab, longbed with 32x12.50 tires. It has 133,XXX miles on it, and runs pretty good. KBB says it's worth $3800ish in fair condition, I paid $2,000. The rust on the passenger side has been media blasted and coated with a rust preventer.Known problems:
#1 - need to replace the wheelbearings. Quick question: when I'm in 2wd, it hums from the RF once I get around 30mph. When I'm in 4wd, there is a clunking sound that sounds like it's coming from the RF also. Would that be because of the bad wheel bearings also?
#2 - need to replace the EGR valve (when I get around to it). It's currently unplugged.
The stain in my driveway is from what's parked in my garage....
Here's some pics, tell me what you think (click to enlarge).
Last edited by Nate81camaro; Oct 29, 2007 at 02:34 AM. Reason: adding more information.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,805
Likes: 480
From: Cape Girardeau MO
Welcome to the site!
Good looking truck, sounds like you got a pretty good deal on it. It seems that Kelley Blue Book always comes in on the high side, IMO.
But $2K for a 4WD that is in good shape is a good deal anyday, in my 'blue book'. :-)
As far as the right front - I suggest it would be a good idea to take it apart and have a look. Might as well do the left while you're at it. At minimum, bearings could probably stand to be re-packed.
It takes a special hub socket to get the locknut off. Stay away from the cheapies - just end up twisting the nubs off.
I would say that a bearing problem tends to be more on the lower-frequency 'roar' level than what I consider to be a higher-frequency 'hum'. Always difficult to diagnose sounds through text.
I suggest to investigate the axle u-joint there at the steering knuckle for the clunking problem.
One note with the EGR - if the valve is working (moves when vacuum is applied), check the vacuum control solenoid located on the intake manifold (just follow the vacuum line from the EGR valve). Had the experience where a little foam filter plugged up inside this solenoid, which apparently didn't let the EGR valve move as it should, throwing a code.
Good looking truck, sounds like you got a pretty good deal on it. It seems that Kelley Blue Book always comes in on the high side, IMO.
But $2K for a 4WD that is in good shape is a good deal anyday, in my 'blue book'. :-)
As far as the right front - I suggest it would be a good idea to take it apart and have a look. Might as well do the left while you're at it. At minimum, bearings could probably stand to be re-packed.
It takes a special hub socket to get the locknut off. Stay away from the cheapies - just end up twisting the nubs off.
I would say that a bearing problem tends to be more on the lower-frequency 'roar' level than what I consider to be a higher-frequency 'hum'. Always difficult to diagnose sounds through text.
I suggest to investigate the axle u-joint there at the steering knuckle for the clunking problem.
One note with the EGR - if the valve is working (moves when vacuum is applied), check the vacuum control solenoid located on the intake manifold (just follow the vacuum line from the EGR valve). Had the experience where a little foam filter plugged up inside this solenoid, which apparently didn't let the EGR valve move as it should, throwing a code.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2
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From: Where the AF tells me to (pm if you really must know)
Thanks for the replies.
I'm going to change the fluids, and I plan on replacing both the inner and the outer bearings on both sides. When I do that, I'll check the U-joints. Thanks.
I'm going to change the fluids, and I plan on replacing both the inner and the outer bearings on both sides. When I do that, I'll check the U-joints. Thanks.
