TES

OK, I did it. just picked up an 96 FWD 5.0 with only 80k. owner (2nd) has owned less than a year and new nothing about the maintenance history. Just changed the oil. What other things was be reasonable to give attention to quickly. Trans flush, Diff flush. O2 Sensor. -- I really wan to keep it quite a while.

Tom

qdeezie

• Brake Fluid - Flush out old brake fluid
• Power Steering - If it calls for Type F, use a name brand Type F. It doesn't like the cheap stuff. (I have a '90, so I'm not exactly sure what the '96's call for, but just sharing my experience here)
• Transmission Fluid - You mentioned doing a trans flush, but make sure you use a decent brand ATF.
• Remove the belt and turn your pullies by hand. They should all turn freely or with minimal resistance. If not, it's time to replace those components
• Consider replacing the tensioner due to age - Maybe not immediately, but it doesn't hurt to put it on your list.
• Inspect your belt and replace if necessary
• PCV Valve - Use Motorcraft only (Yes, there really is a difference)
• Remove, inspect and clean IAC valve (if it has buildup)
• Also remove and inspect throttle body and clean if necessary
• Use MAF spray to clean your MAF sensor
• Regarding the rotor button under the distributor cap, Motorcraft DR374B is your best friend. Others will work just fine, this one gives better performance. This is not something you need to replace immediately, but whenever you get around to doing your rotor cap, rotor button, wires and plugs, consider the DR374B rotor.
• Inspect vacuum lines. If your truck already runs smoothly with no issues, chances are your vacuum lines are intact and good. If not, roughly 20 feet of vacuum hose and vacuum Y's or T's are your best friend.
• I'm assuming by FWD, you mean 4WD. If so, replace whatever fluid the transfer case calls for (I'm not a 4WD guy, so I don't know what they call for).
• Flush your coolant and consider replacing your thermostat during this flush. Relatively cheap insurance against overheating issues later on. I am a Stant Superstat fan, but whatever brand floats your boat. I just wanted to call attention to something quick and easy to replace. Stock up on a few gallons of distilled water and use that to flush it out. That way, your cooling system is rock solid once you put it back together.
• Radiator cap is another one to consider replacing depending on cost.
• Inspect your upper and lower radiator hoses and your heater hoses. If they feel soft, consider replacing.
• Regarding your air filter, keep it simple and use a regular paper filter.
• Inspect the seal around your gas cap. If the seal seems to be worn, replace the gas cap.
• Regarding your fan clutch, while the vehicle is off (and with the belt on), attempt to spin your fan. It should move maybe about 2 inches or less (others feel free to chime in on the exact measurement). However, if it spins freely, your clutch is bad and needs to be replaced.
• Regarding oil filters, I'm not exactly what you'd call brand loyal or a hater, but I'm not a fan of the orange Fram filter. I am not a Fram hater (in fact, I like their ultra filter and use it) but what I'm getting at is use a known good quality filter if longevity is your goal. Purolator has had some recent quality issues as well and they have revamped their product line; however I don't know if the quality issues have been resolved. Have not had time to research it yet.

If anything else comes to mind, I'll add it to this post or add an additional reply.

TES

Thanks so much. Looks like Youtube will be my best friend. I had been cautioned about Fram filters. Many folks have recommended NAPA. Thanks for your feedback.

Tom

Steve83

MotorCraft & Wix are the best filters. Some NAPA filters are made by Wix, but not all. Like all other parts suppliers, NAPA sells several grades of parts.

Get a Haynes manual, read it cover-to-cover at least once (so you know what's in it & where to find it), and then do everything in the maintenance schedule. The oxygen sensors (HEGOs) are NOT maintenance parts, and replacements are generally LOWER-quality than originals. So I recommend you leave them alone; if you change them, KEEP the originals. Before changing the ATF or buying the Haynes, read these captions:


(phone app link)


(phone app link)

BLDTruth

qdeezie and steve83 pretty much nailed all of the good stuff. Brakes are first and most important. After that, fluids and filters. I recommend replacing the crappy plastic vacuum lines regardless if you think they are good or not. Some people will disagree.

Once you get the main things down its a good idea to jack up the front end and look for any play in the steering, wheel bearings, ball joints, etc. Grab ahold of the driveshafts and see if there is any play in the u joints. Clean up battery terminals, make sure all of the ground connections are clean, etc.

How about some pics? We love pics

TES

will some pics as soon as the weather clears up. Thanks for the feedback.