Ok, I'm new on the forum. I'm working on my knowledge about my f150 and everything to know. I'm 16 about to be 17, I get my truck (88' F150 4x4, w/ a 302) and I get my license in July. Before I do anything to it, I thought this would be the place for some good imput. So, first things first, what are the best performance parts I can get for my engine to get some more torque and power? Because I want to put a 4" suspension and 2" body lift, with 35's and I wanan be able to push that and keep my speed. Also, what gears would be best for this, 4.10's or 4.56's?

 

If you have 3.55 the 4.10 will be close to the factory gearing, if you want more power you could try some 4.30 or the 4.56. I do not like body lifts because of problems I have had with them. Others swear by them, I prefer suspension lifts myself.

 

Yeah, I was thinkin the 4.56. I just wanted a 2" inch body for the extra clearence, because a 6" suspension is too expensive for me and all I got is a job at whataburger haha. I got alot of work to do on this truck. The only actual problem it has is the master cylinder for the brakes, and thats an easy fix. But its an old farm truck that this guy has had forever, and I wanna repaint it, lift, tires, performance engine parts, ect. I'll post pictures of it as soon as I can.

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but you're probably going to really destroy some things in a short amount of time, so I would take it slow on the engine side of things and focus on the other stuff while you can. I'm not saying you're a stupid teenager who doesn't know how to drive, I'm saying that as you get to know this ride you'll probably find that you're harder on some parts than others via the process of breaking and fixing...which is a pretty fun process.

Here's my experience with this: I had an 83 Bronco. Did a 6" Rancho lift on 35" mudders with a built 302. 3.55 changed to 4.10 out front and back. I was all set and just about out of money for the truck. Once I got to wheeling, I blew an axle. Now I'm really broke. Month or two later, ball joints. Here comes the credit card.

Long story short, if I could do it all again, I would have saved the money on the headers, shiny Holley carb and the tricked out 6" suspension kit. I should have gone a more affordable route for those things and spent it on things I broke b/c of the way - however poorly - I drove. I'm a little tougher on steering and drive train than I am on the motor and suspension...not what I expected, but it's what happened.

Here's how I think you should focus your efforts and resources:
1) Gears: 4.56 for sure. You've got a lot of weight and even more rubber. A 4.11 is like factory, which isn't a real neck snapper. Seeing a truck spin 35's is impressive to those who know what kind of power that takes and scary to those who don't. It will cost you some highway speed, but trucks this size are sort of a mess at that speed anyway.

2) Suspension: 4+2 isn't as good as a 6", but I can't really say that I recall a situation where I ever used all 6" of lift to clear something...when things get that bad winches usually come out. I don't blame you for doing a 4" suspension lift, makes getting your pinion angle correct less challenging and keeps geometry in check a little more. Make sure all of your bushings are good. Switch to greasable poly's if you have time. You probably already know that you'll likely need at least new brake lines. Probably some other stuff (fuel, clutch, wires) from the body lift too.

3) Drive train: U-Joints, transfer case, transmission, axles, bearings. Check all of these things out. Life with 35's is a lot tougher on these.

4) Engine: Everybody wants 800 hp with 900 ft/lbs of torque. I wish I could get that on a scooter. Paying attention to what you need when you're driving is what should drive your decisions though. I think opening up the exhaust (flowmaster or whichever brand you like) combined with a K&N intake will wake things up a little to start. From there decide if you need more low, mid or high range power and then plan your next move/add on accordingly.

 

i am also 16 and my ford is my first truck.. I have the 4 inch suspension lift and a 2 inch body lift but i have 33"s the guy that sold it to me did have 35's on it but put the 33s on before selling it to me because the 4.10 couldn't handle um so like bjafe said i would definitly go with the 4.56 gears

 

change to a electric fan, electric water pump....under drive pullys, larger throttle body, cold air intake, true duels with headers, oil cooler, and trans cooler....those will all free up hoarse power and make your rig better on gas and make your truck last longer....do them all first before tearing into the engine

 

Only if you plan on driving 1/4 mile at a time, the electric fan, and water pump coupled with underdrive pulleys will very quickly kill the engine due to overheating. Cold air intakes aren't they pull the air from behind the radiator that is supposed to cool the engine. True Duels are hard to route around the transfer and midship fuel tank, you could cut the front cat off and then run duels after it but that will not be true duals unless you cut off before the crossover with eliminates the O2 sensor. Oil coolers do not free up horsepower, they help the oil live longer in high heat applications. Larger throttle bodies will not help much unless you open up the valves and retune the injectors, which will decrease fuel mileage.
The factory air box is more than enough for the engine unless you recam the engine and injectors coupled with opening up the exhaust. If you live in a area with inspections you must keep the catalytic converter under your truck, a good cat back exhaust can help with power.

 

i agree entirely with Mithalvin. i am an Automotive mechanic specially trained in Ford motor company i myself have a 95 302 XL, a K&N panal filter will do much better then a cold air intake because the stock box is right under the hood line and is almost like ram air. unless you get a K&N cold air and put a Ram air rood on it which is time and a LOT of money. underdrive pulleys do NOT produce power at the wheels only the crank and also when you install them your alternator pulley is larger and your crank pulley is smaller making assories spin slower. a Good High flow cat and headers will do you great and if you take the muffler off its not too load to be annoying. a good power gain would be to bring everything back to stock, change your plugs, wires, coil and distributor. if you get these parts performance you will see a little bit better performance and milage. if you Really want power you would put some GT-40 heads in it and performance injectors but that also means doing a major overhall on the moter. and i dont think if you are 16 or 17 you dont have the cash flow to handle a Major performance upgrade.

 

So your list as stated above will run you about 2 grand if you do the work.
If I had 2 grand I'd buy a newer truck with beter gas mileage.

Unless you are diving this truck in a foot of mud..it's really wasted money.
Make sure all the mechanicals are in good condition.
Brakes, u-joints, good fuilds everywhere, no worn out vacum tubes.
new plugs/wires, cap and fuel filter. I had a hot rod in my wonderburger days....raced on weekends wroked and fixed broken stuff during the week..

Best money spent for four wheeling is spent on a good winch.

No one wants to discouage you...just help you not make mistakes that many of us have.

Don't believe the hype!
Unless you can get lots of fuel and air in and lots of exhaust out power gains will be mimal. Engine power and work is expensive.

If it gets you to work and down by the river with your sweetie on the weekend it has plenty of power.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.

 

im working towards that

but seriously, listen to this guy ^