NEED HELP- Driveabilty issues
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
From: Georgia
NEED HELP- Driveabilty issues
Got a 94’ 300 6cyc. Manual tranny. Truck had sat for about 3yrs. Before I got it running again, ran fine for about 3 weeks and then starting giving me problems. Thought I had bad gas and filled up front tank with fresh gas. Starts fine when cold but when driving above 20mph starts to want to cut out and lurch. Then will finally go dead and takes about 20 mins. before it will start again, kept Stabil in both tanks while setting up too.
Here is what I have done to it so far:
- New clutch, throw out bearing, slave cyc. And flywheel resurfaced
- New u joints
- New plugs, wires and cap
- New fuel filter
- New belt and tensioner
- New radiator
- New front rotors and pads
Was thinking problem may have to do with TPS or idle air control sensor? Going to start off replacing all vaccum lines hoping that may help?
Ant and all suggestions welcome and greatly appreciated.
Here is what I have done to it so far:
- New clutch, throw out bearing, slave cyc. And flywheel resurfaced
- New u joints
- New plugs, wires and cap
- New fuel filter
- New belt and tensioner
- New radiator
- New front rotors and pads
Was thinking problem may have to do with TPS or idle air control sensor? Going to start off replacing all vaccum lines hoping that may help?
Ant and all suggestions welcome and greatly appreciated.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 177
Likes: 8
Try replacing Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT). When gone bad, they affect the computer by giving inadequate data once the engine warms up. When cold, the ECT data is ignored mostly.
Only a couple of bucks, easy to do. Check for trouble codes also. imp
Only a couple of bucks, easy to do. Check for trouble codes also. imp
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 249
From: Iowa
Bad idle, issues with MPG and power. Shutting off like that actually sounds more like PIP sensor in the distributor or a failing ignition coil (both will cause random shutdown when warmed up as they are failing-PIP should be identified by a code and can be tested with LED test light, ign coil is just a replace it kind of thing).
If you want to replace the vacuum lines then 22ft of 4mm line and a 4-way vacuum tee.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361
If you want to replace the vacuum lines then 22ft of 4mm line and a 4-way vacuum tee.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 64
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Got a 94’ 300 6cyc. Manual tranny. Truck had sat for about 3yrs. Before I got it running again, ran fine for about 3 weeks and then starting giving me problems. Thought I had bad gas and filled up front tank with fresh gas. Starts fine when cold but when driving above 20mph starts to want to cut out and lurch. Then will finally go dead and takes about 20 mins. before it will start again, kept Stabil in both tanks while setting up too.
Here is what I have done to it so far:
- New clutch, throw out bearing, slave cyc. And flywheel resurfaced
- New u joints
- New plugs, wires and cap
- New fuel filter
- New belt and tensioner
- New radiator
- New front rotors and pads
Was thinking problem may have to do with TPS or idle air control sensor? Going to start off replacing all vaccum lines hoping that may help?
Ant and all suggestions welcome and greatly appreciated.
Here is what I have done to it so far:
- New clutch, throw out bearing, slave cyc. And flywheel resurfaced
- New u joints
- New plugs, wires and cap
- New fuel filter
- New belt and tensioner
- New radiator
- New front rotors and pads
Was thinking problem may have to do with TPS or idle air control sensor? Going to start off replacing all vaccum lines hoping that may help?
Ant and all suggestions welcome and greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
From: Georgia