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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 10:42 PM
  #21  
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how strong are the twin beam front ends when 4 wheeling would it b better to swap to a solid front axle?
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:24 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 90f150
how strong are the twin beam front ends when 4 wheeling would it b better to swap to a solid front axle?
The most common and factory style axle is the same make and model, Dana 44, as what is under there already. The solid axle will eliminate one of the u-joints in the front axle, but it is recommended to switch to a double u-joint for the transfer side of the front drive shaft. This is to help eliminate the binding that might occur with steeper angle commonly found on front drive shafts.
As for the slip yoke eliminator kits, all you are doing with these is changing the location of the slip yolk from a slide in style to one mounted between the u-joints in the drive shaft. The only time that they come in handy is when lifting short wheel base vehicles and only if you plan on replacing on u-joint with the double u-joint style CV joint. Otherwise save the money that you would have spent on the kit and new drive shaft for other upgrades to your vehicle.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:46 PM
  #23  
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so stick with the twim beam and just switch to a double u joint for the front driveshaft? is the transfer side of the front driveshaft closer to the front axle or transfer case and also what is a double u joint i have never heard of 1
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 02:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 90f150
so stick with the twim beam and just switch to a double u joint for the front driveshaft? is the transfer side of the front driveshaft closer to the front axle or transfer case and also what is a double u joint i have never heard of 1
With the twin beam there is no need to complicate the front driveline with the double u-joint. These are common on most solid axle vehicles manufactured after about 1980. They are more complicated and allow for the driveline to be at a steeper angle than the single joints. The most common name is I believe a double cardnan constant velocity joint. and yes these are found on the transfer side of the shaft.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 08:56 PM
  #25  
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ok so i dont need those
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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The twin i beams do just fine off road but most guys swap a solid front axle in when they want to run 36" tires and above. The uv joints dont like big tires since they are under such stress at angles they werent designed for and its harder to keep the front end aligned. If youve got unwanted money to spend and you want the truck just for playing then do an SAS. But for rideability they suck on the road and they arent the best in the sand.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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would 33 or 35 be alright to run on the twin beam
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 06:29 PM
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yes
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 08:49 PM
  #29  
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are auto or manual lock out hubs better? and what r the benefits of manual lockouts
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 08:02 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 90f150
are auto or manual lock out hubs better? and what r the benefits of manual lockouts
Manual hubs are a simpler design with less parts and very little will not go wrong with manuals.
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