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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 01:49 AM
  #21  
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since i've been running premium i haven't had any knocking and even though no code for a knock sensor popped up i'm wondering if mine is taking a dump. i prefer to run premium anyways but at $3 a gallon it hurts the wallet big time.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 10:04 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Just call me Sean
Where the hell have you been? That's what most of us do, as long as there aren't any inspections in your area.
just because people do things doesnt mean its ok to do them in the eyes of the federal govt.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by buddhaman
since i've been running premium i haven't had any knocking and even though no code for a knock sensor popped up i'm wondering if mine is taking a dump. i prefer to run premium anyways but at $3 a gallon it hurts the wallet big time.
If you can't run 87' octane, you probably have carbon build up in the combustion chambers. Yes "JCMS",
SEAFOAM Time!!! (You can skip adding it to your oil, if your not planning on changing it for a while, 1/2 can into the brake power booster brake Vac hose at Idle & normal op.temp, then shut off & let soak for 15-20 mins. 1/2 can in the gas tank)

Last edited by ymeski56; Jan 24, 2010 at 10:40 AM.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 03:22 AM
  #24  
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what would you say is the best way to get rid of it? octane boost and a lead foot?
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by buddhaman
what would you say is the best way to get rid of it? octane boost and a lead foot?
A stock compression engine creates the build up by running higher than 87 octane. After habitual use of higher octanes, it will need it just not to ping. It will also kill your CAT. 87 octane has greater overall combustive properties than 89, and even more so than 91. Octane controls or delays ignition for higher rate of compression engines to take advantage of. Your particular engine is engineered to run 87, unless it's been modified w/ something like a more aggressive cam. Seafoam, 1/2 can through the power brake booster vac hose, while at normal operating temp & idling. shut off for 15-20 mins., then restart & blow it out w/ revs. 1/2 can in the gas. Knock off the hi octane if it will still it run w/o pinging. Wait a few tankfulls and repeat the proceedure. If you can't run 87 w/o pinging at stock base timing of 10 BTDC, your combustion chamber surfaces, Cat & o2 sensor are probably loaded up. The Seafoam will only help the combustion chamber surfaces.

Last edited by ymeski56; Jan 27, 2010 at 04:04 AM.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 11:36 AM
  #26  
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alrighty i'll try that and see how it does. i need a fuel pump and i was looking at a lot of different aftermarket ones but if i got one would i need to do any modification to the gas tank to make it work?
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by buddhaman
alrighty i'll try that and see how it does. i need a fuel pump and i was looking at a lot of different aftermarket ones but if i got one would i need to do any modification to the gas tank to make it work?
I'd keep it simple & go w/ a stock replacement. The injectors aren't going to get any more fuel than the Fuel pressure Regulator allows if increasing the pressure is your concern. Hows your sender accuracy?

Last edited by ymeski56; Jan 27, 2010 at 02:16 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 01:15 AM
  #28  
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i honestly have no idea about the sending unit. how would i check it?
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by buddhaman
i honestly have no idea about the sending unit. how would i check it?
The sending unit sends to the Fuel gauge. If your gauge is accurate don't worry about it. Mine shows E w/ 4 gallons left. Not good!
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 03:05 AM
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the sending unit is fine for the rear tank but the front one is shot. i run the front tank every so often to keep it going but 99% of the time i use the rear one. i noticed no difference in how the truck starts or drives by switching tanks
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