Lowering 1992 f150 flareside
09-15-2015, 02:35 AM
#11
Senior Member
No... You do not have to cut C-notches using a flip kit....
Although, your factory bump stops will prevent you from having much suspension travel......You will only have maybe 1-2 inches of travel using the factory bump stop bracket and bump stops... The easiest way would be to cut the rivets holding the factory OEM bump stop bracket on and remove the bump stops and the bracket. Then install aftermarket bump stops that are about an 1" thick. This will also require about a 1/4" of steel to be ground off the bottom lip of the frame to allow for extra axle travel with the smaller bump stops unless you move up to 2" bump stops. With this done you will at least 4-5 inches of extra suspension travel.
I do not recommend Toxic Shocks or Belltech shocks...They do not last that long and are not stiff enough for my liking for our heavy trucks. I would recommend Doetsch suspension system shocks or the Edelbrock.
DJM I-beams:
I do not like DJM I-beams but they work. They are cast aluminum or steel hollow tubing around a steel reinforcement pipe. I had one break on me once when I hit a pot hole about 15 or so years ago. I now use Belltech I-Beams. They are about twice as heavy and made of solid steel. I do not know if they make them still. You can get a 3 inch drop using I-beams or----
You can purchase 3 inch drop Springs from Crown Suspension and keep your factory I-Beams...You will have to replace the Camber-Caster bushing in the I-beam with an adjustable 5 degree adjustable camber caster bushing for front end alignments. I recommend Moog. I also recommend replacing that bump stop with a shorter one..It just bolts off and on... 1" bump stop should do.
You should not have any issues with your factory front sway bar....You have to flip the end links up side down to mount the sway bar with a 3-5" drop the sway bar still works.The factory rear sway bar I do not know if it works. I'm currently using a Hellwig rear sway bar which works fine because it is adjustable.
Last edited by Toplait; 09-15-2015 at 02:40 AM.
09-15-2015, 11:54 PM
#12
Joe
Thread Starter
No... you can use the DJM flip kit but I do not recommend their flip kit...The bracket will eventually bend do to axle twist and cut into your axle housing do to the poor design that does not support your axle. If you get a flip kit make sure it has a U-shaped design that supports your axle and not a half square |_| design such as DJM. IF you want a DJM just weld three peices of plate steel together and cut a hole were your leaf spring bolt rides in.
No... You do not have to cut C-notches using a flip kit....
Although, your factory bump stops will prevent you from having much suspension travel......You will only have maybe 1-2 inches of travel using the factory bump stop bracket and bump stops... The easiest way would be to cut the rivets holding the factory OEM bump stop bracket on and remove the bump stops and the bracket. Then install aftermarket bump stops that are about an 1" thick. This will also require about a 1/4" of steel to be ground off the bottom lip of the frame to allow for extra axle travel with the smaller bump stops unless you move up to 2" bump stops. With this done you will at least 4-5 inches of extra suspension travel.
I do not recommend Toxic Shocks or Belltech shocks...They do not last that long and are not stiff enough for my liking for our heavy trucks. I would recommend Doetsch suspension system shocks or the Edelbrock.
DJM I-beams:
I do not like DJM I-beams but they work. They are cast aluminum or steel hollow tubing around a steel reinforcement pipe. I had one break on me once when I hit a pot hole about 15 or so years ago. I now use Belltech I-Beams. They are about twice as heavy and made of solid steel. I do not know if they make them still. You can get a 3 inch drop using I-beams or----
You can purchase 3 inch drop Springs from Crown Suspension and keep your factory I-Beams...You will have to replace the Camber-Caster bushing in the I-beam with an adjustable 5 degree adjustable camber caster bushing for front end alignments. I recommend Moog. I also recommend replacing that bump stop with a shorter one..It just bolts off and on... 1" bump stop should do.
You should not have any issues with your factory front sway bar....You have to flip the end links up side down to mount the sway bar with a 3-5" drop the sway bar still works.The factory rear sway bar I do not know if it works. I'm currently using a Hellwig rear sway bar which works fine because it is adjustable.
No... You do not have to cut C-notches using a flip kit....
Although, your factory bump stops will prevent you from having much suspension travel......You will only have maybe 1-2 inches of travel using the factory bump stop bracket and bump stops... The easiest way would be to cut the rivets holding the factory OEM bump stop bracket on and remove the bump stops and the bracket. Then install aftermarket bump stops that are about an 1" thick. This will also require about a 1/4" of steel to be ground off the bottom lip of the frame to allow for extra axle travel with the smaller bump stops unless you move up to 2" bump stops. With this done you will at least 4-5 inches of extra suspension travel.
I do not recommend Toxic Shocks or Belltech shocks...They do not last that long and are not stiff enough for my liking for our heavy trucks. I would recommend Doetsch suspension system shocks or the Edelbrock.
DJM I-beams:
I do not like DJM I-beams but they work. They are cast aluminum or steel hollow tubing around a steel reinforcement pipe. I had one break on me once when I hit a pot hole about 15 or so years ago. I now use Belltech I-Beams. They are about twice as heavy and made of solid steel. I do not know if they make them still. You can get a 3 inch drop using I-beams or----
You can purchase 3 inch drop Springs from Crown Suspension and keep your factory I-Beams...You will have to replace the Camber-Caster bushing in the I-beam with an adjustable 5 degree adjustable camber caster bushing for front end alignments. I recommend Moog. I also recommend replacing that bump stop with a shorter one..It just bolts off and on... 1" bump stop should do.
You should not have any issues with your factory front sway bar....You have to flip the end links up side down to mount the sway bar with a 3-5" drop the sway bar still works.The factory rear sway bar I do not know if it works. I'm currently using a Hellwig rear sway bar which works fine because it is adjustable.
thanks for the reply man but I lowered my truck a couple years ago haha all belltech ibeams belltech shackles and belltech drop hangers I hadn't been on here in along time figured id post a picture from the day I finished it guess it bumped the post up
09-19-2015, 06:35 PM
#14
