Topic Sponsor
1987 - 1996 F150 Still running strong! Talk about your 8th and 9th generation Ford F150 trucks.

Leak identification

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 1, 2012 | 11:42 AM
  #1  
bluesman5920's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Default Leak identification

Hi guys -

Just noticed a new leak on my 4.9L 1990 F150. I've attached pictures...

Not sure what this line is... but what's leaking is oily. It flows to the radiator. What am i looking at here?

Also, can I pull out the rubber connection, replace the hose, and be good to go?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails Leak identification-engine-1.jpg  
Reply
Old Dec 1, 2012 | 11:51 AM
  #2  
87f-150's Avatar
member
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 609
Likes: 33
From: spartanburg south carolina
Default

Its the high side a/c line
Reply
Old Dec 1, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #3  
rikard's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 360
Likes: 17
From: North Reading Ma
Default

That looks like one of the refrigerant lines for the A/C system. From the fitting it looks like its an R12 system, but someone could have done a conversion without changing the fittings.
The refrigerant has to be recovered before the line can be replaced. After the line has been replaced the system should be leak checked and evacuated before it is recharged.
Regards
rikard
Reply
Old Dec 1, 2012 | 12:43 PM
  #4  
bluesman5920's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Default

Yes, based on that information and following the lines, it makes perfect sense.

I appreciate the wisdom.
Reply
Old Dec 1, 2012 | 12:51 PM
  #5  
5Rangers's Avatar
November 2011 TOTM Winner
10 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 75
From: Dallas area
Default

Nice clean engine bay btw... congrats on your upkeep.
Reply
Old Dec 1, 2012 | 04:11 PM
  #6  
nauss85's Avatar
NAVY Jet Engine Mechanic
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 378
Likes: 11
From: Andrews AFB, MD
Default

I wish mine looked that clean, even with your oily leak lol
Reply
Old Dec 1, 2012 | 06:07 PM
  #7  
imp's Avatar
imp
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 177
Likes: 8
Default

If the "leak point" is the "Schrader" valve insert core, it may be possible to solve the problem simply by removing the protective cap, replacing the rubber seal within it, and screwing it back on fairly tightly. imp
Reply
Old Dec 2, 2012 | 08:59 AM
  #8  
rikard's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 360
Likes: 17
From: North Reading Ma
Default

Originally Posted by imp
If the "leak point" is the "Schrader" valve insert core, it may be possible to solve the problem simply by removing the protective cap, replacing the rubber seal within it, and screwing it back on fairly tightly. imp
Good point, also if the core valve itself is leaking there is a tool that will remove and replace the valve with the system still pressurized. Many HVAC/R techs have the tool.
Regards
rihard
Reply
Old Dec 3, 2012 | 10:14 PM
  #9  
imp's Avatar
imp
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 177
Likes: 8
Default

Originally Posted by rikard
Good point, also if the core valve itself is leaking there is a tool that will remove and replace the valve with the system still pressurized. Many HVAC/R techs have the tool.
Regards
rihard
This is one tool I would like to look over! In order to not lose refrigerant while removing the Schrader valve core, it would have to seal on the O.D. of the checkpoint, be able to unscrew the core completely out of the tube, while maintaining sealing of the turning device, then insert a new core.

Glad I don't have to design one! imp

Edit: 'Course, I should be careful: Many, many guys have told me I'm a liar when I tell them I can replace a tire valve stem in the rim, without removing the tire off the rime, or even the wheel off the vehicle! I bought that tool when I owned a service station, in 1972.

Last edited by imp; Dec 3, 2012 at 10:17 PM.
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 07:03 AM
  #10  
rikard's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 360
Likes: 17
From: North Reading Ma
Default

The tool installs over the valve and it removes the core into a chamber. A valve seals off the chamber and the core can be removed and a replacement put in place. The isolation valve is opened and the core is put back in. The removal part is a sliding shaft with an indentation for the core.
It is a cool tool and mine cost under $80.
regards
rikard
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:36 PM.