The depth for the factory door speaker location is 4" at the most shallow point, and 4.5" at the deepest point. If you look at the exterior of the door itself, you'll see the indention that runs the length of the side of the truck... That indention pokes into the inside of the door right at the place where a speaker's magnet might hit it. But it would have to be a pretty deep speaker with a pretty big magnet to do this. I don't think it would really cause a problem for 95% of the 6.5" speaker options out there. I doubt that you'd even need to use a spacer. If you do, a 3/4" MDF would work... but I'd be sure to put a coat of fiberglass on it.

Also... for anyone interested in putting mid-bass speakers in the lower portion of the door, where the factory door pocket is... it should pretty dang easy. There is room there for two 6.5" woofers (where the stock door pocket is).... and the window, in the lowest position (all the way down) doesn't even make it that low. All you'd need to do is trim out the sheet metal and replace the lower door panel section with an appropriate piece of MFD or similar, covered to match the color of your interior. The hardest part would be developing a speaker grill to cover both speakers... and that's not hard at all.

So...Daws... might I suggest that you may be better suited investigating something similar to what I'm considering:

High quality 6 1/2" co-ax in the factory location, crossed over around 250 Hz or so... just to keep them from bottoming out with the bass... then putting one or two 6 1/2" mid-bass speakers in the lower portion of the door panel and letting them play from about 80 to 250 Hz... or so.

I think this will be MUCH easier than messing with the Q-forms... especially if you just use one midbass in the lower door panel... If you do that, you can use a simple 6 1/2" speaker grill to cover it.

It may not sound as good as the Q-forms could... but it may actually sound better. I've found that you can make up for a LOT of undesirable things in a car audio environment by dumping a ton of power on it, and correctly using EQ and cross-over points.

 

Indeed... I've got a set of eD components (can be mounted coaxially also) already and will probably use the door holes and just use a bunch of sound deadening on the door. With an amplifier on them I don't really think the midbass in lower portion will be necessary. Maybe if I were going to try some kind of competition - but it's just my work truck..

 

Ok... cool.

I just got finished removing every-single-piece of plastic trim in my truck. I washed all of it, inside and out... then dried them all off and wiped them down with Armor-All. It's all sitting in the garage right now drying out. I'm about to to take my truck to the car wash... and power wash the interior. Too much dirt to try to remove just by wiping.

About the mid-bass woofers in the bottom of the door panel:The more I look at that door panel now that it is off, the easier I think this will be. There is a strong possibility that I will actually keep the factory panel as is, and mount the two 6 1/2 mid-bass woofers in the metal of the door (with a gasket of course)... then cut out the inside of the pocket, so that the speakers come through. This way, when someone peers into the truck, everything looks 100% stock.

 

I too have been looking into these kick panels and it says for my 96 the hood release lever has to be moved because the drivers side Qform kick panel sits right where the lever is located.

Does anyone know how difficult it is to move this lever and where did it get moved to? I'm assuming somewhere below the dash.

Thanks