Instrument Cluster Compatibility
#11
Chief Mystic
Thread Starter
I thought 96 would be the split year, not 95? Are there a lot of 95 OBDIIs out there?
I had watched that video, and read that thread. As usual, no one wants to speak about compatibility confidently.
I had watched that video, and read that thread. As usual, no one wants to speak about compatibility confidently.
Last edited by AbbadonTD; 11-20-2014 at 12:43 PM. Reason: forgot, again
#12
Martin
here is the thread of my swap https://www.f150forum.com/f10/gauge-...p-pics-127758/ keep in mind that 95 is a split year between obd1 and obd2 so you must know which you have because they dont interchange
As stated above for a 95 a 94-95 cluster will work. If you have an auto and your shift indicator works fine a manual cluster will work as all the parts can be swapped.
#14
Senior Member
Lot's of mis-information on here. When I swapped mine, there were too many opinions on what years were compatible, so when I went to the yard, I just found one that was the same year (1996 for me) so that there wouldn't be any confusion. Also, it does not matter if both clusters are from the same type transmission (auto and/or manual). The only thing that does matter is that a auto trans cluster will need the transmission selector indicator cable attached. Further, the clusters don't even have to have the same number of cylinders. You can use a tach cluster from a straight 6 and install it in a V-8 and it will work just fine. Lastly, a diesel cluster is not compatible with a gas cluster. So, to recap:
1) Get the same year cluster at the yard as your truck.
2) Does not matter if both trucks have different Transmissions (manual/auto).
3) Does not matter if one is a straight 6 and one is a V-8
4) It does matter if one or other is diesel vs gasser.
Here is how to do the swap:
1) Take the original non-tach cluster from your truck and remove the Oil pressure/water temp dials.
2) Next, remove the battery/fuel gauges.
3) Remove your original speedo/odometer. This is the only thing you'll be needing for the rest of the swap. Your old cluster housing and oil/water gauges and battery/fuel gauges are no longer needed.
Now, take the cluster you picked up at the yard and remove the gauges in this order:oil/water first, battery/fuel second, tachometer third, speedometer last. You can get rid of the speedometer as you won't need it.
4) Now is a good time to make sure all of the bulbs work on the cluster you picked up at the yard (or just replace them all to make sure).
5) Take the cluster housing you picked up from the yard and install the speedo/odometer from your original truck into it. Now, install the gauges from the yard cluster back into the housing in reverse order: Tach, battery/fuel, oil/water.
6) That's it. It's plug and play now. Just re-install the new cluster into your truck and you now have a working tach.
1) Get the same year cluster at the yard as your truck.
2) Does not matter if both trucks have different Transmissions (manual/auto).
3) Does not matter if one is a straight 6 and one is a V-8
4) It does matter if one or other is diesel vs gasser.
Here is how to do the swap:
1) Take the original non-tach cluster from your truck and remove the Oil pressure/water temp dials.
2) Next, remove the battery/fuel gauges.
3) Remove your original speedo/odometer. This is the only thing you'll be needing for the rest of the swap. Your old cluster housing and oil/water gauges and battery/fuel gauges are no longer needed.
Now, take the cluster you picked up at the yard and remove the gauges in this order:oil/water first, battery/fuel second, tachometer third, speedometer last. You can get rid of the speedometer as you won't need it.
4) Now is a good time to make sure all of the bulbs work on the cluster you picked up at the yard (or just replace them all to make sure).
5) Take the cluster housing you picked up from the yard and install the speedo/odometer from your original truck into it. Now, install the gauges from the yard cluster back into the housing in reverse order: Tach, battery/fuel, oil/water.
6) That's it. It's plug and play now. Just re-install the new cluster into your truck and you now have a working tach.
The following users liked this post:
AbbadonTD (11-21-2014)
#15
Chief Mystic
Thread Starter
Bought a 1995 F150 Manual trans 4x4 cluster from an I6. I have the V8.
Anyone done the LED swap? I have done it in other cars and it does make the dash modern and not hard to read. I think I will since I am pulling the cluster anyway.
Anyone done the LED swap? I have done it in other cars and it does make the dash modern and not hard to read. I think I will since I am pulling the cluster anyway.
#17
Chief Mystic
Thread Starter
Post Script.
Bought cluster from a 95. Swaped in with no trouble and in minutes. You have to swap your Odometer to keep it correct, but that is not hard. Now I have a Tach.
5 Bulbs for illumination, and that sticky green for the colors. I'm going to do LEDs, but it is not at the top of my list.
Bought cluster from a 95. Swaped in with no trouble and in minutes. You have to swap your Odometer to keep it correct, but that is not hard. Now I have a Tach.
5 Bulbs for illumination, and that sticky green for the colors. I'm going to do LEDs, but it is not at the top of my list.
#18
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Just be sure to only do the back-light bulbs as LED, some of the indicator light (battery, blinkers, etc..) use resistance to help determine that system is working correctly, and led has less resistance so it will cause issues.
#19
Chief Mystic
Thread Starter
I did not have that problem previously in other vehicles with aftermarket LEDs. Is this a ford problem or an OBD1 issue? Its not that important on the indicators, since they are bright enough anyway.
#20
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
It's just ford's set up for the battery and turn signals, and air bag light, not sure about anything else but those all use the resistance of the incandescent bulb as a factor in ensuring each system is properly working.