Ignition Key Cylinder/Steering Wheel Won't Lock
#1
Ignition Key Cylinder/Steering Wheel Won't Lock
I've found this forum very helpful with other issues thus far,and I've tried searching this topic but have not been able to find this issue. My '94 F150, 4.9, auto, non-tilt steering column, has begun doing this nine times out of ten: key cylinder will not return to lock position and the wheel will not lock either. I feel solid resistance stopping the cylinder, and then with more pressure I get a click and the cylinder will lock. Now I know I'm gonna damage something if I continue doing this, maybe I already have. I've removed the key cylinder and it seems fine, even added a little dielectric grease to the cylinder just in case. I'm looking for a little guidence before I dive in. I dropped the column about a year ago to replace the bushings on the shift rod, but I don't know where to start on this one. This is my daily driver so i like to have a plan before I start.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Could be a problem in the rod that goes to the ignition switch or the ignition switch itself. The ignition switch is the big (usually white) switch with all the wires on it bolted on the bottom of the column about 2/3 of the way down.
Turning the key moves a rod. The rod has a bend at the end that fits into the ignition switch and moves it from accessory to off to on to start. Start is spring loaded to push back.
If you lie on your back on the floor and look up you'll see it. You can take the switch off and see if the key works properly without it. You can also operate the switch by hand when it's unbolted to see if it's binding.
1/2 hour or so (the first time) to take that apart and put it back together. Then you'll know if you need to get a new ignition switch or if the problem is further up in the column.
Turning the key moves a rod. The rod has a bend at the end that fits into the ignition switch and moves it from accessory to off to on to start. Start is spring loaded to push back.
If you lie on your back on the floor and look up you'll see it. You can take the switch off and see if the key works properly without it. You can also operate the switch by hand when it's unbolted to see if it's binding.
1/2 hour or so (the first time) to take that apart and put it back together. Then you'll know if you need to get a new ignition switch or if the problem is further up in the column.
#4
Thank you Chris 1, for your reply to my question. I'll start with that and hope it's as easy as the ignition switch.
And fltdriver, thanks for that advice, I've always used a graphite-based lubricant on the door locks, for this I only applied the grease to the exterior of the key cylinder.
And fltdriver, thanks for that advice, I've always used a graphite-based lubricant on the door locks, for this I only applied the grease to the exterior of the key cylinder.