so like most of you I imagine I've decided to rebuild my truck slowly. I have to save up money to rebuild motor. But since it still runs good now I'm fixing everything else. what do u guys think when it comes to oem parts and the performance line, ( distributor,wires,plugs,exhaust etc.) think these parts will damage or wear out my motor since its 25 yrs old?

 

My 93 has a 5.0 in it and last year I put flow masters on it. It really made the truck sound great and gives it a little more get up and go when you hit the gas. New exhaust is a great way to get a little better performance out of these stock engines

 

Which flowmaster set did u go with? I was thinking of either American thunder or hushpower.

 

I have the flow master 40s. My friend has the American thunder though and it sounds amazing.

 

My suggestions for you:

Start by doing preventative maintenance
**Replace small diameter vacuum lines coming from the manifold tree, I used (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361) 22ft of 4mm hose and a 4-way vacuum tee. Takes about 20-30 minutes to do them all. These are thick-walled silicone lines and should outlast your truck, they aren't susceptible to temperature degradation like the OEM plastic lines or the rubber line you get from auto parts stores, a one and done replacement.
*Redo the suspension/steering related components on the truck {springs (coil and leaf), shocks, ball joints (upper and lower), tie-rods, wheel bearings, radius arm bushings} all in one go so you only need to get one alignment done and you're set.
*Completely replace the cooling system in one shot as well {radiator, heater core, pump, therm, hoses} to prevent an older component from releasing "gunk" into a new one. I just ordered everything to do mine (2-row rad, HC, Upper/lower hose) for under $180 shipped from rockauto.
*Consider doing an E-fan conversion, love mine and could sing praises all day on the benefits. Cost me about $60-70 to do it (pulled dual speed/dual blade fan from chrysler sedan along with 2 relays, this controller, 2 inline fuses and some wire, about 2 hours to wire and install).
*Basic tune-up items won't hurt your motor, plugs really don't matter to these engines. Basic copper/copper plugs run just as good as the high dollar plugs. I used platinum tip/copper core because they had a rebate on them that made them cheaper than the straight coppers, the only real benefit to mine is that with the plat tip they won't gap as much and will last a lot longer. Good idea to replace your idler and tensioner pulleys with initial tune-up. They may still be functional but they are cheap and will help reduce belt drag, also check all of your pulleys to ensure no noise/extra resistance comes when turned (signs of damaged/worn out bearings). {Basic tune-up to me means: Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, ignition coil, belt, pulleys}
*Do all of your fluids (oil, trans, diff). When you do your brake fluid swap out the rear brake lines.
**Get a can of quick drying electronic clean ($4@walmart) and clean all of your electrical connectors. Also clean up your body grounds, sand frame/eyelet, wire brush the bolt, dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
**Get a 120ct assortment of fuses ($8 ebay, 12 rockauto) and swap out every fuse.


These can all be done in a few hours for each * (except the suspension/steering-weekend project) and are things that I've done not because they had to be done but because I felt they should be. I usually buy the components as I have extra cash then when I catch a rainy day throw them on. My 5.8 has over 300k miles without a rebuild on the engine or trans and is used for my business (trimming trees and lawn care). I was lucky enough to get it off a retired Ford dealership mechanic who was religious about drive-train PMing so I have just been following his lead and am hoping to get at least 500k on the motor/trans before any major problems arise.


**These will save you some major headaches down the road, don't know how many people come here with issues that have left them stranded that turn out to be one of these three things.

 

Thanks man I'll definitely do these things. Is there a way u can send a part number for the controller? It didn't quite come up. We're do u put the relays and inline fuses? U have pics of its so I can get an idea? Thanks

 

Compressor works 733653
link didn't work for me either, need to update my saved links I guess.

Post #10 has my wiring in this thread. https://www.f150forum.com/f10/e-fan-conversion-273073/

The inline fuse goes between each relay (30) and the battery. I found a 2 relay housing unit off of another vehicle and have it mounted between the battery and passenger headlight.

 

I have something i think could be a good fit for ya since your in the beginning stages of your performance goals.

For any 5.0 v8 its important to get the maximum air flow into and out of the engine right? Well if ya slap some headers of some sorts with a air induction system of your preference, and then add http://www.ebay.com/itm/BBK-86-93-Ford-Mustang-5-0L-V8-75mm-TB-High-Performance-Throttlebody-/251251072842?hash=item3a7fbb1f4a&vxp=mtr to the intake side of things. You see nothing but power gains and significant throttle response. This is obviously just my opinion but its proven itself worthy more then twice for me lol.

 

What about a new 90mm throttle body.?

 

Whoa on the throttle body.

1) That 75mm throttle body is not for our trucks.

2) You don't need to upgrade the stock throttle body unless you're making well over 400hp.

3) Even if you have money to burn, the throttle body is the very last part you need to upgrade. And by this, I mean building an engine well over 302 cubic inches that's pushing 400 to 450hp.

4) Before it comes up, do not put any Mustang or Explorer intake on your truck. The truck intake outflows them all.

5) Stick with the stuff fltdriver is recommending since you're not doing any internal engine work.

6) Headers are a great option if your budget allows.