Help with Clutch Issues
Hi guys im posting this for my brother who has a 1995 f150 4.9L 4x4 5spd. We just replaced his blown tranny with a used one off of craigslist from a 1995, 302, 4x4 f150.
The transmission went in with out any problems and we installed a new oem ford slave cylinder and also a new clutch master cylinder. We've spent the last week bleeding the clutch and there seems to be no air in the line and the pedal feels great. However the clutch isnt depressing the clutch enough, we cant even get into gear. With the truck up on jack stands we've been able to start the truck in gear and the rear tires spin right away.
Is there still air in the line?
I was told that the oem slave cylinders dont come bench bled like the part store ones. If this is true, how are you suppose to bench bleed a slave cylinder?
Would the v8 302 manual transmission be causing this mishap? is it different then the 4.9L 5spd tranny?
Im really stumped and my brother needs to get this truck going soon, any help would be greatly appreciated!!
The transmission went in with out any problems and we installed a new oem ford slave cylinder and also a new clutch master cylinder. We've spent the last week bleeding the clutch and there seems to be no air in the line and the pedal feels great. However the clutch isnt depressing the clutch enough, we cant even get into gear. With the truck up on jack stands we've been able to start the truck in gear and the rear tires spin right away.
Is there still air in the line?
I was told that the oem slave cylinders dont come bench bled like the part store ones. If this is true, how are you suppose to bench bleed a slave cylinder?
Would the v8 302 manual transmission be causing this mishap? is it different then the 4.9L 5spd tranny?
Im really stumped and my brother needs to get this truck going soon, any help would be greatly appreciated!!
It's all the same, it should work. Unhook the line from the slave at the transmission, it's designed to close so it doesn't leak fluid. Make sure the master is full and pump the clutch pedal until it won't go down anymore, until it won't press in anymore. Then all the air will be out of the master and you can hook it back up. Then pump the hell out of the pedal again until the pedal comes back. If there's still air then pump the pedal and crack the bleeder, then pump the pedal back up again. It's a long process. I just changed my master and there's still some air in the system but I didn't crack the bleeder screw to get the rest of the air out.


