Going nuts with codes
On most code sets, 12 and 46 reference an inability to control idle speed with the IAC motor. I'd check the connection to the IAC, and remove it for a very thorough cleaning. 33 on the list I'm looking at doesn't appear as a possible KOER code.
I'm just going to have to take the truck to the shop. ;( sad it is. But it's driving me crazy. Hopefully I it will drive far enough to get there. And hopefully they will just diagnose so I can do repairs. I can't afford to take to the shop as it is. I certainly can't afford them to repair it.
This connection coupler has come loose on me a couple of times and the engine will barely run. 4 vacuum lines go through the coupler. May be wrapped in tape.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...150/Vacuum.jpg
Check all the lines to the EGR solenoid and other solenoids under the black plastic cover shown in the above photo.
You can test the EGR solenoid by pulling the line off of the EGR end. (Leave the tube attached to the EGR solenoid end under the plastic cover). Put your thumb over the end of the vacuum line. There should be no vacuum at idle. Increase the idle speed to about 1500 or so and you should feel vacuum. Note: picture is from my '86 May be some differences with your '88?
Make sure the EGR itself is moving freely. You should be able to move the plunger by hand when out of the engine. In engine you can use a hand vacuum pump and you should be able to hear it move. If the EGR is stuck open the engine will have trouble running at idle. If stuck closed or not operating you won't notice much difference.
Also the EGR to manifold pipe must not leak.
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Last edited by klricks; Mar 28, 2012 at 09:30 AM.
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The original was also bad. Replaced both the egr valve and sensor today. Still don't run. Noticed smog check valve between heads broken off. Not sure how big of an impact that has on the running of engine. Could that be my problem

