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getting bubbles out of the cooling system.

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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 01:53 AM
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Default getting bubbles out of the cooling system.

I have a 94 5.0. Had to flush the system a few time due to rust. I have run the truck and boiled out bubbles a few times. New water pump and thermostat. Heater only get a little warm. Engine temp reads cold. Is there a more efficient way of making sure all air bubbles are out of the system?
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 02:42 AM
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I've never done this myself but I've seen it done. Pull the front of the truck up a steep incline an run the engine with the radiator cap off. I've always heard this method as burping the system.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jrh5610
I've never done this myself but I've seen it done. Pull the front of the truck up a steep incline an run the engine with the radiator cap off. I've always heard this method as burping the system.
I have had to do this a couple times with my 93. Either do what he said, and park it on an incline. Or just jack up the front of the truck, which is what i did, and it will work really well. Sometimes you have to let it run for 15 min or longer to get all of the air out. It took about 30-45 minutes for mine. Worked just fine afterward though.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:28 PM
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Thank you. I'm going to work on it today.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 02:38 PM
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Anytime bro
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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Another thing you can do is to just loosen the cap up to where it's still on but forms no seal and then let it idle
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 09:16 PM
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I don't know if the incline speeds it up or something but I've never done that. What I've always done is put a radiator funnel in the radiator and let it idle until it stops purging air. I've never had a problem with them not getting all the air out within a few minutes.

Radiator funnel.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LIL-24610

You let a few inches of coolant stay in the funnel so when air is purged it is immediately replaced with coolant, plus you can see the air bubbles in the funnel. Then in a few minutes it'll stop burping and you just put the long plug in the funnel and empty it in the reservoir tank and fill that.

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1..._tester__.html

This is really the "right" way to do it, it takes seconds because the vacuum you put on the system sucks in coolant and no air so there is no bleeding required. But at $270 you won't be getting one unless you do it for a living and it'll pay for itself. Just get the $15-$20 radiator funnel to make life easier and get a beer while it's purging.

Last edited by Austin97; Nov 2, 2011 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Austin97
I don't know if the incline speeds it up or something but I've never done that. What I've always done is put a radiator funnel in the radiator and let it idle until it stops purging air. I've never had a problem with them not getting all the air out within a few minutes.

Radiator funnel.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LIL-24610

You let a few inches of coolant stay in the funnel so when air is purged it is immediately replaced with coolant, plus you can see the air bubbles in the funnel. Then in a few minutes it'll stop burping and you just put the long plug in the funnel and empty it in the reservoir tank and fill that.

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1..._tester__.html

This is really the "right" way to do it, it takes seconds because the vacuum you put on the system sucks in coolant and no air so there is no bleeding required. But at $270 you won't be getting one unless you do it for a living and it'll pay for itself. Just get the $15-$20 radiator funnel to make life easier and get a beer while it's purging.
Im liking this idea alot better......
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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That's how I learned and like I said I've never had a problem. You always want to check the coolant after you've driven it for a half hour or so anyway though. These trucks bleed pretty easy but I've had some different vehicles that just would not get rid of the air bubbles until you drove them.
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