I have a 88 f150 302 v8. I get about 15 miles per gallon.

 

I have an '87 5.8L 351W and I get a whopping 10mpg city and 13mpg hwy.

Any thoughts on bumping it up, although I'm not sure it will do much better. This is a carb'ed engine BTW.

 

Bump your timing up 2 degrees, so if your at stock (10BTDC) try 12BTDC. You'll get an increase in mileage & performance and it doesn't cost a dime!! I'm running at 16BTDC but that requires a little preparation.

 

so how do you do this and know it won't screw with your motor?

 

Ditto that. I can do most general maintenance to my vechicles, but this truck is starting push my limits.

 

How do you administer the seaform through the vacuum line to the power booster? I'm guessing very small amounts at a time?

I through a can into my gas tank every now and then to help clean injectors, does this 'Lucas injector cleaner' do a better job?

Ill try the timing thing too, and check the condition of my cap and rotor.

My daily drive is about 10km to work, and 10km back. Im hoping to boost my MPG to atleast 12. I did a calculation today and it was at 9.25, which is mighty low considering I am used to getting 18 out of my ranger.

 

that's low for the 150 and the ranger
the brake booster is the large thing above the steering column in the engine bay attached to the firewall. it has a tube going to the intake. pull that tube off and start the truck. pour in quickly until the engine dies. reattach line and let truck sit for 20 minutes or so then drive around and be kinda hard on the gas

 

RE: TIMING MODSIf your truck is running a distributor, look around the TFI module/distributor. There is a connector dangling at the end of two wires. This connector has a spout plug in the end of it. When it's in, the ECC controls & makes modifications to whatever your Base Time is set to. When the Spout plug is removed, the timing returns to base time w/ no computer control/advancement. This is how you should check your base time & adjust, W/ the spout plug removed. Stock is 10BTDC. Timing mod should be done w/ engine at normal op. temp.. With a decent timing light, after you loosen the set bolt holding the distributor in place, adjust to 12BTDC, tighten bolt & check timing again to make sure it didn't move while tightening. W/the spout connector out, although the ECC has no control, the timing curve is directly related to the Engine RPM. So when you advance 2 extra degrees, your RPM will increase slightly. Plug the spout connector back in and watch your RPM start to drop to 675 aprox. If it dos'nt drop to normal, while you have your foot on the accelerator, have someone disconnect the IAC and babysit the Idle manually @ 675 for 2 mins. then shut off the engine & reconnect the IAC. After that you should be go. Go for a drive, put it under load, and listen for signs of ping. If your not familiar w/ ping, take it to a shop and have them do it and test drive it for you. You shouldn't have to go up an Octane level. Higher octane is for engines running at a higher rate of compression. If your running stock base timing (10BTDC) any octane above 87 is a waste of money & can actually be detrimental to your engine over the long term. The two biggest reasons for ping is dirty injectors & deposits lining the combustion chamber surfaces. There are plenty more, but those are the "Big Two". Higher Octane shouldn't be required until after 14BTDC. I suggest anybody that wants to do this have the engine scanned to make sure you have no error codes pending & if there are any, rectify them first. But when the dust finally settles you'll agree it's well worth the trouble. How much advancement your engine can handle w/o ping is a good indication of the general condition & health of the engine. Note: Copper Core Plugs allow your engine to tolerate more advancement & are safer for your engine. Here's a good link re: The best bang for your buck "Ignition upgrade w/Timing Bump"(Lotsa Pics) :http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...ht=timing+bump